Relaxed And Refined: Unstructured Tailoring

Relaxed And Refined: Unstructured Tailoring

At Oliver Spencer, relaxed unstructured suiting is our signature - a modern tailoring philosophy that blends effortless style with unparalleled comfort. But what exactly is unstructured tailoring? Unlike traditional suits with their rigid, padded shoulders and heavy canvas interiors, unstructured suits strip away the internal scaffolding. Lightweight linens, soft cottons, and wool blends drape naturally over the body, offering a fluid silhouette that feels as good as it looks. The absence of stiff interlinings creates a breezy, laid-back aesthetic, perfect for the modern guy navigating work, weddings, or weekends.

Why choose unstructured over the old English style of heavy canvassing? Traditional tailoring, rooted in Savile Row’s structured suits, prioritises formality with firm shoulders and a defined chest. Oliver Spencer’s unstructured approach, by contrast, champions versatility and ease. These suits breathe in summer heat, move with you, and age gracefully, developing a lived-in charm. They’re less about boardroom rigidity and more about a confident, nonchalant vibe - think sprezzatura with a British twist.

 
 

The origins of unstructured tailoring trace back to mid-20th-century Italy, where Neapolitan tailors pioneered soft-shouldered jackets for warm Mediterranean climates. This ethos inspired us to craft suits that marry Italian fluidity with London’s eclectic edge. Our summer designs, cut from ecological linen in understated tones, reflect this heritage while embracing contemporary needs.

 
 
 

Styling unstructured tailoring is where the magic happens. For a smart look, pair our Arnold Navy Laurel suit with matching belted trousers, a crisp white open-collar shirt, and suede loafers, ideal for summer weddings. To dial it down, go for a more muted tone such as our 100% linen Sand version, add a white organic cotton tee or textured polo, and finish with leather sandals for a weekend-ready ensemble that exudes confidence. Tailoring like this offers freedom without sacrificing elegance, Explore our collection to discover suiting that moves with your life.


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