Modern Vintage Vol. 2: The Crosby Coat

Modern Vintage Vol. 2: The Crosby Coat

Some garments are named for what they do. The car coat was named for where it was worn, and then it outlived the reason entirely. At the turn of the twentieth century, driving was less a commute than an outdoor sport. Cars had open tops, roads were unpaved and breakdowns were part of the trip, so motorists dressed for an expedition. "Motoring dress" meant long, heavy coats in fur, leather or thick tweed, often lined with fur, worn with gloves, goggles and caps. Even then, people had strong views on cloth. In 1909 the racing driver Dorothy Levitt told readers to ignore the cry of "nothing like leather" and choose tweed or homespun instead, because leather coats "do not wear gracefully".

 
 
 

Then the car grew a roof. With heaters and closed cabins, a floor-length coat just got in the way behind the wheel. After the Second World War the coat was cut down to mid-thigh, borrowing from the practical jeep coats servicemen brought home. What was left made a lot of sense: single-breasted, long enough to cover a jacket, short enough to sit down in, with a collar you could turn up against the weather. Those rules have barely changed since.

The Crosby Coat keeps the shape and rethinks everything around it. It is made in the United Kingdom and keeps the car coat's clean, single-breasted line, finished with a spread collar and a hidden placket that leaves only the top button on show. It's a quiet bit of editing but it underlines the minimalist no-fuss approach.

The Crosby Coat comes in three fabrications: Fink Beige is woven in a cotton and wool blend in an earthy houndstooth. Thackray Oatmeal Multi is a warm, substantial plaid in 100% pure new wool. It's the most traditional of the three and the one to reach for when the temperature drops. Roderick Black, in washed cotton twill, is the minimalist's choice: midweight, with a hook-and-bar fastening above the top button, made for the in-between weeks of autumn and early winter.

 A century on, the car coat no longer needs a car. It just needs somewhere to go.

 

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