The Oliver Spencer Shirt Guide

The Oliver Spencer Shirt Guide

Few garments are worn as often, or chosen as casually, as the shirt. We'll spend weeks deciding on a coat, then grab a shirt on the way to the till. But the shirt is what sits closest to you all day, under a jacket, beneath a jumper or out on its own. It deserves more thought than it gets. Here is the Oliver Spencer range, broken down by how it's sized, how it's cut and what it's made from.

Start With Sizing

The first thing to know is that our shirts are sized in two ways. The New York Special and the Brook are sized by collar, from 14.5 to 17.5 inches. These are our most tailored shirts, so collar size is the most reliable starting point. If you wear them buttoned to the top or with a tie, measure your neck rather than guessing.

Everything else, including the Corby, Atlanta, Garrison, Mulvey and Penryn, is sized from XS to XXL, with the Corby also starting at XXS. These styles are made to be worn with the top button undone and often untucked, so the fit comes from the chest and shoulders rather than the neck.

The Three Fits

Regular, collar-sized: the New York Special and the Brook

The New York Special is a modern classic and one of our most popular shirts for good reason. It's a regular fit with a spear collar, a chest patch pocket and single-button cuffs. This is the shirt to wear under tailoring, sharp enough for a jacket but easy enough to wear on its own.

The Brook is the button-down. Its roots are military: British officers first wore it to play polo while stationed in India. It then became an icon of preppy Americana, taken up by the Ivy League set in the 1950s and 60s. More than half a century later, it remains the cornerstone of smart-casual dressing.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Oliver Spencer Men's Navy Brushed Cotton Button-Down Shirt Flat Shot

Regular, letter-sized: the Corby

New this season, the Corby is a regular fit in letter sizes, which makes it the easiest step from tailored shirts to casual ones. The defining detail is a pair of welted chest pockets in place of the usual patch pocket. Add a natural spread collar and contrast buttons, and you get a cleaner, more minimal front.

 
 
 
 

Loose and layered: the Atlanta, Garrison, Mulvey and Penryn

This is where the shirt starts to act like outerwear. The Atlanta is cut loose to give autumn dressing a relaxed, unbothered shape. The Garrison is also loose and can double as a lightweight overshirt. Its set-in sleeve lets the cloth fall naturally from the shoulder, giving a softer line through the body.

The Mulvey is built on our overshirt block for a slightly roomier shape. It has a hidden contrast placket and cuffs, a welt chest pocket and a subtle spear collar. The Penryn is the overshirt proper: loose, with two chest patch pockets that nod to workwear and a curved hem made to be worn untucked over a tee.

Grey pinstripe wool suit jacket worn with a pink shirt and brown wool tie

The Fabrics

Brushed cotton. The softest way into autumn. The New York Special in Welford Brown and Navy, and in Sheridan Cream (100% organic), has a smooth, soft handle and a natural drape. The Corby in Welford Brown brings the same texture to a cleaner shape.

Micro-wale cord. Corduroy without the bulk. The Mersey cord, in 100% organic cotton, appears on the New York Special in Green, the Atlanta in Brown and the Penryn in Caramel Brown. The Atlanta in Newson Cord is indigo-dyed for a deeper, rinsed blue. These are the most textured shirts in the range.

Plaids. Dobson Beige and Ennis Brown are soft, tonal plaids woven from 95% cotton. Find Dobson on the New York Special and the Brook, and Ennis on the Brook and the Mulvey. The Ennis on the Mulvey is a bolder brown check, made for layering under a crew neck.

Stripes. Terrence Blue is a bold blue stripe, Orton Black Multi is a multi-stripe with contrast buttons, and Collins White/Blue is an organic cotton classic. All three come on the New York Special. Annette Blue, a blue cloth with navy and brown pinstripes, comes on the New York Special and the Mulvey. Orville Green brings a subtle stripe to the Brook and the Garrison, and Brimham Blue is a pale organic-cotton stripe on the Garrison.

Denim and indigo. The Corby in Mullins Denim, in Indigo Light and Indigo Rinse, is made from organic cotton and is set to become your go-to denim shirt. The Brook in Faye Indigo Blue is made from cotton and recycled cotton, and develops its own patina the more you wear it.

Plain colour. McKenzie Blue is a rich, premium cotton, on the Brook for work and on the loose-cut Garrison for weekends. The Corby in Marcie Pink is a crisp coral organic cotton, and the Penryn in Marcie Maroon brings the same organic cloth to a richer, darker shade.

The Short Version

If you want a shirt for a jacket, choose the New York Special. If you want one for a jumper, go with the Brook. The Corby works for everything in between, and the Atlanta, Garrison, Mulvey and Penryn are for wearing on their own or over a tee.

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