A working mill has its own sound: the rhythmic clatter of the looms, steady as a heartbeat, going on much as it has for generations. That is where this season's outerwear story begins, in a mill outside Leeds, where our Morgan Green cloth is woven from 100% pure new wool.
We visited the mill to document the process from its first threads. Yarn is set on the loom, the shuttle crosses, and slowly a green appears that seems to come from the landscape itself: the colour of wet moorland and dry-stone walls under a low autumn sky. It is a cloth with depth and texture, as rewarding up close as it is from across the street.
From Yorkshire the cloth travels south to London, where it is cut and sewn into two of the season's key pieces. The Big Coat is exactly what its name promises: a robust, belted, double-breasted winter coat with a turn-down collar and horn buttons, built as the final word against the elements. The Addington Jacket is its easier-going companion. It borrows from the classic bomber and the workwear chore jacket, with two large front pockets for everyday use. Both are made in Britain, start to finish.
The same mill supplies a second cloth this season. Thackray is a rich oatmeal plaid in pure new wool with an earthy, autumnal warmth, and it comes in three styles. The Renbourne Bomber Jacket pairs a double-zip fastening with a spear collar, making it smarter than your average bomber. The Crosby Coat is a true overcoat, with a spread collar and a hidden placket that leaves only the top button showing. And the Addington returns, this time in plaid.
Provenance is an overused word, but for us it simply means knowing where things come from, and who made them. A cloth woven in Yorkshire and a coat sewn in London come from generations of British craft that is still at work today. These are garments made in these isles, and made to last well beyond a single season.
