The Flavour Of Soho: In Conversation With Chef Gabe Pryce

The Flavour Of Soho: In Conversation With Chef Gabe Pryce

Soho boasts the most vibrant culinary scene in London, with an eclectic array of cuisines on offer from Michelin-starred restaurants to Chinatown. It's a landscape that's always changing, but for a few familiar faces who manage to get everything just right. One such place is Rita's on Lexington Street,  a modern American outpost that defies convention with its soulful, shareable plates. Co-founding the venture in 2012 with front-of-house maestro Missy Flynn, Gabe Pryce originally launched Rita's as a audacious pop-up in a converted Dalston nightclub toilet above Birthdays, slinging fried-chicken rolls and patty melts to late-night crowds. By 2013, it had bloomed into a standalone Hackney haven on Mere Street, only to shutter in 2016 amid the relentless hospitality grind. 

Now in central London, Pryce draws from New York diner nostalgia and one particularly revelatory Mexico trip that infused his palate with street-food flair. Pryce crafts sustainable menus spotlighting local gems, with mouth-watering dishes such as jalapeño popper gildas, barbecued monkfish with turnips and mole amarillo, and grilled pork chops with sweet onion, apples, and bourbon, all dished up in a cosy bistro buzzing with neighbourhood warmth. We caught up with him recently to chat food, a little fashion, and festive traditions. We give you Gabe Pryce...

 
 
 

Oliver Spencer: So Gabe, tell me, what's your favourite thing about the festive period?

Gabe Pryce: My favourite thing is dividing my time between friends and family, and occasionally getting them all together. There’s something special about setting aside a proper Christmas meal with different groups. You might see these people all year, but getting properly indulgent together at Christmas feels different. It’s pretty special.

OS: If someone’s coming to Rita’s for the first time, what would you recommend?

GP: The classics are amazing - devilled eggs, gildas, martinis, steaks - but especially right now, go for the devils on horseback: prunes stuffed with a blue-cheese mousse and candied walnuts, wrapped in smoked bacon and lacquered with this sweet glaze. They’re banging. And if you’re feeling flush, add black truffle to anything.

OS: Missy Flynn spoils us for choice on the cocktail front. What's your drink of choice when you walk in?

GP: I’m a vermouth guy usually, but this time of year I want something with a bit of whiskey in it. Bourbon or rye, a Manhattan maybe. Depends what’s on the specials board though; our bar team are really creative.

OS: Tell us about the Oliver Spencer stuff you're wearing.

GP: I’ve set myself a challenge to stop wearing black all the time. The Burley jumper technically is black, but it’s not all black - it’s a bit more playful. It's one of those where you take your jacket off and someone thinks, “Oh, he's not boring.” The bomber jacket is a classic silhouette and I've layered it over this lightweight brown cotton jacket

OS: What’s the best thing about London at this time of year?

GP: I spent a lot of my formative years in America and was never that attached to the British pub, until December swings round. Places like The French House (I’m a bit biased, I know the guys) just sing at this time of year. There’s nothing else like it anywhere in the world, and London’s full of those little pockets that are at their absolute best right now. Plus, they shut at a reasonable hour, so when you’re being really indulgent you eventually have to go home.

OS: Any message or bit of wisdom you’d like to pass on at this time of year?

GP: I’m pro-indulgence, but doing something for someone else, no matter how small, is really important. Whether it’s volunteering, any kind of community stuff, this is when it’s relied on most and when it feels most special. We’re trying to spread that with the team and our friends and family too.

OS: Lastly, how do you relax over the festive period? Any traditions you swear by?

GP: Every year, to the annoyance of my friends and loved ones, I turn into a 14-year-old boy the moment I walk into my parents’ house. That’s happening. Also, my family live next door to two very well-known chefs. One year Angela dropped off a bottle of Madeira and my dad and I drank the whole thing. I’ve been trying to turn that into an annual tradition ever since - he’s not fully on board yet, but we’re going to have another go this year.

Get yourself down to Rita's on Lexington Street for an incredible meal quite unlike anything else you'll find in the city right now.



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