Rot And Roll: In Conversation with Dan Keeling of Shrine To The Vine

Rot And Roll: In Conversation with Dan Keeling of Shrine To The Vine

In the often stuffy world of wine, few figures have managed to be both authoritative and genuinely entertaining. Dan Keeling is one of them. Co-founder of Noble Rot magazine alongside Mark Andrew MW, he helped turn a cult pamphlet into what many now call the coolest wine publication on earth – a bibulous blend of gonzo journalism, irreverent humour and serious tasting notes that somehow convinced Michelin-starred chefs, rock stars and Master Sommeliers to appear between the same covers.

Before Noble Rot, Keeling spent fifteen years as an A&R man at Island Records. When the digital revolution flattened that world, he pivoted to his other great love: wine. 

Teaming up with Andrew in 2013, he launched the magazine from a Soho basement, followed by three beloved Noble Rot restaurants in Lamb’s Conduit Street, Soho and Mayfair, which were cumulatively described by the Guardian as “the places where the wine trade goes to worship and misbehave in equal measure.”

He later opened the bottle shop to end all bottle shops, Shrine To The Vine, and somehow still found time to write The Noble Rot Book: Wine from Another Galaxy (2021). Today, Keeling remains wine’s great contrarian – a man who can pair natural wine with punk attitude, champion the underdog producers, and still school you on vintage Bordeaux without ever sounding like a snob. Ladies and gentlemen, Dan Keeling.

Hi Dan, what's your Favourite thing about December?

One of the things I love most about December is travelling to Barolo to meet the growers we’re fortunate to represent in the UK, tasting through their cellars while the vineyards lie veiled in mist. It’s one of the most beautiful - and, at this time of year, most atmospheric - wine regions in the world. And, of course, it would be rude not to check in at some of our favourite restaurants, like Il Centro and Repubblica di Perno, when white truffles are at their best.

 

Arnold Coat Haughton Black

£489 GBP
Made in England

What's one thing you would recommend to someone who is coming to Noble Rot  for the first time - an insider tip if you will? 

I’m constantly blown away by our front-of-house crew. When Mark and I opened the first Noble Rot restaurant, we were the biggest wine geeks in the room. Now, when I hear the team excitedly planning what they’ll drink and cook together on their days off, I know that’s no longer true. My insider tip is simply to get them talking: ask for their favourite bottle at your price point, or tell them you love Grand Cru Chablis but need a more affordable alternative. Then just watch - they’ll light up as they steer you toward a hidden gem.

Can you tell us about what you're wearing from the Winter collection today?

I love this black Arnold jacket for its flattering silhouette and the ease with which it can be dressed up or down. I can see myself wearing it with a denim shirt, jeans and trainers, or just as easily pairing it with a casual suit.

What's the best thing about London at this time of year that you don't experience elsewhere?

The best thing about London at this time of year is the same thing that’s best about it all year round - Lamb’s Conduit Street. I’m drawn to its rich history, its architecture and its sense of place. Sitting in the candlelit dining room of our 325-year-old restaurant feels timeless, as though the walls have absorbed centuries of good living. And the community of residents and independent traders here feels stronger than ever - from La Fromagerie, Ciao Bella and Honey & Co to Oliver Spencer, Folk, Sunspel and our wine shop, Shrine to the Vine. As Christmas Day approaches and people drift out of London to see their families, I love the way the city starts to feel sleepy. You don’t expect a place as big as London to be shaped by the seasons, but it really is.

One message you have for the audience (one of hope, a piece of wisdom etc)

If you want to improve be content to appear clueless or stupid – Epictetus. 

How do you relax over the festive period? Any traditions you swear by?

For over a decade now, we’ve met a few friends in Queen’s Park for a couple of glasses of Champagne in the late morning. When we started, it was usually just us - now there are hundreds of people, though I’m not entirely sure they’re all drinking fizz.

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