Big Coat Styling With Olie Arnold

Big Coat Styling With Olie Arnold

While the current cold snap isn't quite the Beast from the East, it does signal that cold weather is now here, and here to stay, which means the next few months are going to demand some bolstering of your wardrobe with a big coat or two. Although such coats cover up two thirds of your body when done up, that doesn't mean you can give scant thought to what you're wearing underneath! In fact, the best winter looks are when you leave the coat open to reveal a masterclass in textural layering. We asked former Mr Porter Style Director Olie Arnold to show us how it's done using a trio of big warm coats from our Winter 24 collection. Take notes at the back...


The Grandpa Coat

 

The Grandpa coat has become one of our most-loved outerwear silhouettes that we've created. It first went into production in 2013 and has been a regular every autumn and winter season since. The idea for it came from a big corduroy and shearling jacket that Olie purchased a long time ago in New York. Over the season's we've used a number of different fabrics in the Grandpa coat, each of which gives it a different attitude, but the common denominator is that it has to feel like a big warm hug! It's one of those heavy duty winter coats that feels impervious to everything the elements can throw at you. The earlier versions came without a belt detail, but this was added recently to offer a more elevated look. 


Styling notes:

 

 

"This corduroy coat is a great addition to your winter wardrobe. While it looks like it weighs a tonne, it’s actually surprisingly light thanks to the fine cotton cloth. It's got just the right amount of weight to it to know it’s great quality and will be warm, but it's not going to bog you down when you’re trotting around town all day. The single-breasted construction allows you to layer up underneath and show off your handy work. Autumn hues work well with the brown, and don't be afraid to inject a little pattern in their either to break up the shapes and draw the eye in."


The Newington Coat

 

The Newington coat is a double-breasted style cut from dry wax cotton and is fleece lined, making it incredibly warm. With two front welted pockets and two internal pockets, this coat will see you through the worst the winter can throw at you, all the while in consummate style. The Newington coat was born out of the Grandpa coat but with a few major differences, the most obvious being the double-breasted construction and the fleece lining which gives it a weighty warmth. It most closely resembles the traditional pea coat, but with an oversized silhouette.


Styling notes:

 

 

"Proportion is everything in menswear, and for those who like to size up, this is the one for you. You really get bang for your buck with the Newington coat thanks to that faux shearling lining, but there’s still plenty of space for layering, should the weather get even colder. Because of the coat's dimensions, consider a heavy weight trouser that also has a roomy cut, like these pleated cords, to ensure your look has balance."


The Albion Coat

 

If you like your robust winter layers in a shorter silhouette then the Albion coat will fit the bill. It is a classic double-breasted wool coat with a design signature that references traditional peacoats. The silhouette is cropped at the hips, making it a really versatile autumn and winter jacket that you can wear with off-duty fits as well as suiting. Traditional pea coats used to be made of heavy Melton wool for its waterproofing qualities (and the fact that it was worn by those at sea!), but our version is comprised of a much softer wool with a smooth nap to give it a more sartorial and elevated finish. It's still very warm, but doesn't have the bulk of old-school pea coats. The Albion coat is also the only coat to feature a 'lover's pocket' - essentially a secret ticket pocket. You'll have to find it yourselves!

Styling notes:

 

"Tonal dressing (such as browns) works very well with a “winter white”, achieved here through the ecru trousers. Just because the days are shorter, doesn’t mean you have to dress dark too. A pop of a bright neutral tone can really lift your look. Opting for a knit vest worn over a long-sleeve tee, rather than a jumper, is perfect for those urban folk having to brave packed trains and tubes. It'll regulate your temperature that bit better if you're moving indoors and outdoors all the time."

The Big Coat

 

As the name suggests, this is one big hug of a coat, immaculately tailored in a classic great coat silhouette. The great coat rose to popularity in the late 19th century, usurping the frock coat. It's long line and double-breasted construction lent itself well to military uniform, creating a statuesque silhouette. Our version  features a turn-down collar, horn buttons, and a belted reverse, offering quite a traditional tailored shape that it perfect to wear with a smarter winter ensemble, say a wool suit or tailored separates. If you sport a suit for your Monday-Friday, then the charcoal grey style that Olie wears above will nicely complement your looks while giving you all the warmth and protection from the elements that you need.

 
 

Styling Notes:

 

"If you're workplace requires a more sober style of dressing, or you just prefer a monochrome palette, then it's always a good idea to mix up your fabrics and textures, however subtle. This grey Big Coat frames the other grey and black tones nicely, while the hi-shine leather of the loafers bookends the look with some polish. You can also bring in accents of colour somewhere in the look, which I've done here with the beanie, but it could just as easily be a pair of sneakers, gloves, or some statement glasses."

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