High Seas, Low Temperatures, Perfect Knits
The submariner roll neck jumper was originally commissioned by the British Royal Navy during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. As Britain’s naval power expanded, sailors were often subjected to freezing temperatures while at sea, particularly in the North Sea and the Atlantic. The Royal Navy needed a garment that was not only durable but also capable of providing substantial warmth and protection against the elements.
The solution came in the form of a tightly knitted, high-necked wool jumper, designed to insulate sailors from the cold and wind. The wool, typically untreated and full of lanolin, retained its water-resistant qualities, ensuring that sailors remained relatively dry even in wet conditions. The high roll neck could be turned up to protect the face and neck, making it a functional piece in harsh climates. By the time the First World War rolled around, the submariner jumper had become an essential piece of uniform for Royal Navy crews, particularly those on submarines, where temperatures could plummet while submerged.
While the British Royal Navy popularized the submariner jumper, similar garments began to appear in other military and maritime contexts. In the early 20th century, both the French navy and German U-boat crews adopted versions of the roll neck jumper, recognizing its practicality for sailors operating in cold waters. The Royal Air Force also issued cream rollnecks to pilots to wear under their Irvin flight jackets in World War II.
Beyond Europe, roll neck jumpers found their way into other maritime cultures. Fishermen in the Faroe Islands and Iceland wore similar heavy wool sweaters for centuries, emphasizing the universality of the design in combating cold seafaring conditions. The design principles that originated with the submariner roll neck -thick wool, high neck, durability - resonated across cold-climate maritime communities.
The Hallmarks of the Submariner Jumper
What sets the original submariner jumper apart from other knitwear is its distinct functional design. Typically made from 100% wool, it is knitted in a dense gauge that maximizes warmth while minimizing bulk. The wool is traditionally natural and untreated, retaining the lanolin that gives it water-resistant properties. Over time, merino wool and other softer, more comfortable wools have been used to increase wearability, but the original submariner wool was pretty coarse and robust.
