Deep Dive: The Submariner Roll Neck

High Seas, Low Temperatures, Perfect Knits

The submariner roll neck jumper was originally commissioned by the British Royal Navy during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. As Britain’s naval power expanded, sailors were often subjected to freezing temperatures while at sea, particularly in the North Sea and the Atlantic. The Royal Navy needed a garment that was not only durable but also capable of providing substantial warmth and protection against the elements.

The solution came in the form of a tightly knitted, high-necked wool jumper, designed to insulate sailors from the cold and wind. The wool, typically untreated and full of lanolin, retained its water-resistant qualities, ensuring that sailors remained relatively dry even in wet conditions. The high roll neck could be turned up to protect the face and neck, making it a functional piece in harsh climates. By the time the First World War rolled around, the submariner jumper had become an essential piece of uniform for Royal Navy crews, particularly those on submarines, where temperatures could plummet while submerged.

While the British Royal Navy popularized the submariner jumper, similar garments began to appear in other military and maritime contexts. In the early 20th century, both the French navy and German U-boat crews adopted versions of the roll neck jumper, recognizing its practicality for sailors operating in cold waters. The Royal Air Force also issued cream rollnecks to pilots to wear under their Irvin flight jackets in World War II.

Beyond Europe, roll neck jumpers found their way into other maritime cultures. Fishermen in the Faroe Islands and Iceland wore similar heavy wool sweaters for centuries, emphasizing the universality of the design in combating cold seafaring conditions. The design principles that originated with the submariner roll neck -thick wool, high neck, durability - resonated across cold-climate maritime communities.

The Hallmarks of the Submariner Jumper

What sets the original submariner jumper apart from other knitwear is its distinct functional design. Typically made from 100% wool, it is knitted in a dense gauge that maximizes warmth while minimizing bulk. The wool is traditionally natural and untreated, retaining the lanolin that gives it water-resistant properties. Over time, merino wool and other softer, more comfortable wools have been used to increase wearability, but the original submariner wool was pretty coarse and robust.

The hallmark feature is of course the roll neck, which could be pulled up to provide additional warmth or left folded for a neater appearance. This design allowed for maximum versatility in extreme conditions, particularly for submariners who needed to stay warm in the cramped, often damp confines of submarines.

Another important aspect of the design is the ribbed cuffs and hem, which help trap warmth and prevent cold air from entering the garment. Early examples of the jumper were simple and utilitarian, often produced in navy blue, but over time,  versions in cream became popular variations.

The Submariner Today

The submariner roll neck began to enter mainstream fashion in the mid-20th century, driven largely by the post-war trend of military surplus clothing being repurposed for civilian wear. Its rugged, masculine aesthetic resonated with the big screen too, with the likes of Connery, McQueen et al all frequently wearing the style.

As far as fabric is concerned, the heavy duty lanolin-rich wools of old have given way to much softer wools or blends, making them more comfortable for everyday wear and ease of layering. Our own version of the Submariner - the Talbot jumper - is crafted from 100% extrafine wool with a subtle rib, making it warm yet lightweight and without the bulk of bigger knits. We've crafted the Talbot in three different colours - sage green, brown, and navy - all providing an understated element of texture to your autumn and winter fits.