Wale Watching: Why Corduroy's Still Cool

Wale Watching: Why Corduroy's Still Cool

The once-maligned fabric is this season's class act. Actually, maligned is a bit of a strong word. Corduroy emerged from its heyday in the 60s and 70s - when the likes of Robert Redford and Dustin Hoffman were sporting knockout corduroy jackets and suits in films such as All The President's Men and The Graduate - only to enter the 80s as everyone's favourite fashion scapegoat (then again, the 80s can take a good long hard look at itself in the mirror if we're talking fashion faux pas). Overnight (at least in fashion terms), corduroy went from swarthy masculine to laugh-out-loud antiquated, but then that was the 80s - the era that spawned mullets, spandex, and shoulder pads! 

The origins of the fabric are French - the etymology of the word is believed to come from late 18th century France, from the term 'corde du roi' meaning 'cloth of the King'. It was woven then as it is now (only by less industrial means): it's most unique feature are the raised ribs that run parallel to the selvedge of the typically cotton cloth. The ribs are formed by cutting the threads in one direction, resulting in the rows or what is better known as 'wales' in the fabric. The higher the number of wales, the smoother or less textural the cloth will be. Classic corduroy typically has about 14 wales per inch, whereas needlecord has much finer ribs and is around 18 cords per inch. We've used both forms this season.

Jackets

In the new Autumn 25 collection, our Sibley corduroy has been used to create two jacket styles - the Bradwell and the Shawcross. Sibley is a relatively narrow wale corduroy - so not super chunky wales but wide enough to create a textural effect. The Bradwell jacket is something of a hybrid, with a cropped finish and a camp collar lapel. With its origins in utilitarian workers jackets, it's a versatile modern silhouette that will give you loads of styling options this season, especially in this corduroy cloth. The Sibley options come in both black and beige. We've also created the jacket in our indigo-dyed Newson corduroy, which is a finer needlecord fabric with a smoother finish. The Shawcross jacket is made from the Sibley cordury and riffs on classic four-pocket field jackets. Featuring a cropped silhouette with a squared off hem, and four front bellows pockets, it is the perfect blend of workwear heritage and contemporary styling.


 
 
 

 

Shirts and Trousers

 
 
 
 
 

Our corduroy shirts come in two varieties this season: our classic button-down called the Brook shirt, and a new introduction to the category, the Quito shirt. Seasoned Oliver Spencer customers will be familiar with our Brook shirt, one of our preppier styles. We've used our Mersey corduroy cloth, which features very fine wales to create a beautifully soft shirt that drapes like a dream. The same fabric has also been used in the Quito shirt, a two-pocket Western style with a classic yoke construction. Both styles come in plum, black, and dark brown options.

Our corduroy trousers are presented in the shape of our belted style in both the Sibley and indigo-dyed Newson fabrics. The belted trouser is a relaxed silhouette with straight legs a built-in belt and they can be worn with the matching Bradwell or Shawcross jacket for a modern take on the idea of a 'suit', but are equally as versatile as smart casual separates.

Accessories

Given that corduroy is such an excellent way to introduce texture to a look, we had to extend it to our seasonal accessories collection. We've produced a small number of caps, tote bags, and ties in the Sibley cloth, allowing you to inject looks with a subtle swathe of texture. The fine details always matter, and these corduroy pieces, albeit small, bookend your looks with a cool tactility.

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