From military underlayer to cultural shorthand, the white T-shirt has travelled a long way. Originally issued as a practical cotton layer to US servicemen during the Second World War, it was designed for function: close to the body, easy to wash and made to absorb the realities of the day. Its transformation into an icon came afterwards, when it moved from beneath the uniform to the centre of the frame. James Dean’s white T-shirt in Rebel Without a Cause made a simple garment feel charged with independence, youthful defiance and a new kind of easy-going style.
The enduring appeal of the white T-shirt is that it is a blank canvas, but never an empty one. The right version can make a jacket feel less formal, give tailored trousers a more relaxed footing, or carry an entire outfit on its own.
“A plain white T-shirt is one of the most democratic and enduring things a man can own. It has to feel good, fit properly and work with almost everything, otherwise, what is the point?” says Oli.
We treat this wardrobe essential with the same attention we bring to a suit: considering the cloth, construction, silhouette and finish. Because although a T-shirt is simple in principle, it is remarkably easy to make badly. This season, that thinking takes two forms: Parton, a heavyweight T-shirt with enough presence to take the lead; and Waterson, a lighter jersey style designed for everyday wear.
Parton: More Than a Basic
The Parton Heavy T-shirt is built from 300gsm organic cotton - substantial enough to hold its shape, frame the body and give an outfit real definition. Its weight and texture place it somewhere beyond the conventional T-shirt. More structured than a lightweight jersey and with the presence of a fine knitted polo, it is made to be seen rather than hidden beneath other layers. The result is an elevated essential for days when a little more is called for. Wear it with relaxed tailoring and loafers in place of a shirt. Pair it with pleated trousers and an overshirt. Or let it do the work with well-worn denim and a favourite jacket.
