From Scrum to Swagger: The Rugby Top’s Style Evolution

From Scrum to Swagger: The Rugby Top’s Style Evolution

Let’s rewind to the 1840s. Rugby School, England - a pack of scrappy lads are tearing up the turf, inventing a game that to the untrained eye looks like organised chaos mixed with untamed violence. Their uniform? A hefty cotton shirt with bold horizontal stripes, a stiff collar, and enough grit to handle a tackle or ten. That’s the rugby top’s origin story - born on the muddy pitches of Victorian Britain, designed for function over flash. Little did those players know they’d kick off a style revolution that would begin with preppy Ivy Leaguers and lead all the way to creatives like David Hockney and Tyler the Creator.

Back in the day, rugby shirts were all about utility, hand-stitched from thick cotton flannel, and usually in block colours to differentiate them from neighbouring teams. Sometimes, when teams amalgamated, they would simply create jersey’s in half and half colours, then later club sides introduced horizontal hoops as a way to stay unique. 

By the early 20th century, the rugby top started creeping into everyday life with British schoolboys adopting it as a casual flex. In the US, the preppy set caught on in the ‘50s and ‘60s. Ivy League campuses turned into rugby shirt central, with brands such as Brooks Brothers giving it a polished twist. Given that rugby was only typically played by British public schoolboys, wearing one on campus was like a status symbol. Picture pastel stripes, popped collars, and loafers - sporty but suave. Ralph Lauren really leaned into this in the 80s, turning the rugby top into a preppy icon that you could wear to the country club.

Even the creative scene got involved, turning the rugby top into an act of rebellion. The likes of Mick Jagger and David Hockney, could be spotted in one, with the latter turning it into something of a style signifier.

When the ‘90s hit, the rugby top got a whole new attitude. Hip-hop and grunge flipped it from polished to raw. Baggy fits ensued. The stripes went loud - neons, primaries, clashing combos. The rugby top broke free from its posh roots, hitting the streets and subcultures with a vengeance.

Roll forward to today, and like much of the styles that grew in the petri dishes of 60s subcultures, they have become massively democratised, offering something for everyone. Today’s rugby top is a chameleon, sliding into any number of different wardrobes and style genres. Next time you slip one on, remember that you’re not just wearing a shirt - you’re rocking a history lesson, a subculture mashup, and a style flex all in one. 

 

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