Autumn Winter 2020

Midwestern Modernism

The Oliver Spencer AW20 collection is inspired by the coming together of the traditional and the modern in America’s Midwest, with subtle inflections of Western style combined with modernist interpretations of shape, colour and texture. Whether a houndstooth suit in ecological wool or a checked shirt in organic cotton, AW20 is designed to reflect the richness of Midwestern culture and the clarity and form of the region’s modernist designers, notably Frank Lloyd Wright and Mies van der Rohe, both of whom blurred the boundaries between nature and the living space.

“AW20 is inspired by my trip to the Midwest last summer. We stayed on a cattle ranch and I was struck by the elegance of the culture there. It also got me thinking about how traditions assimilate modernity, and in the Midwestern cities like Chicago, that means architecture. I was impressed by how much the environment matters. When you spend time in an extraordinary landscape, you’re bound to connect with the world around you.” – Oliver Spencer

The collection is heavily textural, with intricate weaves and fabric finishes helping each piece to blend together. The palette is vibrant and sophisticated; with caramel, cardamom, forest green and inky blue grounding pops of cream and tobacco for a warming, autumnal feel.

The use of natural materials sourced from innovative makers gives the collection its character, with distinctive fabrics such as winter-weight seersucker and cotton herringbone taking centre stage. Chunky knitwear comes in extra-fine lambswool alongside organic cotton jersey and sweatshirts. Corduroy, with its wales imitating the clean lines of modernist forms, is used across tailoring and casualwear. Silhouettes remain fitted but comfortable, and tailored pieces are softly constructed.

Sustainable design continues to be at the heart of the Oliver Spencer brand. Much of the AW20 collection is made from ecological and organic materials, including organic cotton shirting, the canvas used in overshirts and trousers, and un-dyed ecological wool. Where possible, outerwear is made in London to reduce our carbon footprint and support British craftspeople.