The Story of the Solms Jacket

The Solms jacket was one of the very first signature Oliver Spencer silhouettes and remains to this day our most iconic piece of tailoring. It actually takes its name from a customer and long-time friend of Oli's, Philip Solms. Philip wanted a jacket that adhered to the traditional tenets of tailoring on the one hand, while also doubling as a piece of outerwear on the other. He wanted to be able to flip the collar when it was cold to afford him a little protection from the elements, without the need of resorting to an overcoat. Oli's solution, and the thing that makes the Solms jacket so unique and versatile, is the hybrid collar construction which can be worn up or down depending on how you want to style the jacket. The collar is for all intents and purposes a hybridised Nehru collar when stood up, the one difference being the accentuated gap at the front. But it's this very gap that turns the Nehru collar into a classic notch lapel when turned down, instantly turning what was an elevated piece of tailored workwear into something altogether more sartorial.

SOLMS JACKET BUTTRESS CHARCOAL

 Solms jacket Buttress Navy by Oliver Spencer

SOLMS JACKET
BUTTRESS NAVY

SOLMS JACKET EDEN NAVY

SOLMS JACKET
EDEN NAVY

SOLMS JACKET PENTON CORD NAVY

SOLMS JACKET
PENTON CORD NAVY

Worn either way, the Solms still avoids being labelled as 'smart.' It certainly exists in the realm of smart-casual', but the unstructured shape and beautifully soft drape definitely provides an easy-to-wear nonchalance that no structured blazer or sports coat could ever hope to give.

This Season's Solms

Each season, the Solms jacket uses new fabrics to metamorphose into a new incarnation and this Autumn is no different, with 10 options in a variety of rich autumnal tones and textures, chief among them being corduroy. We have crafted three Solms jackets in our tactile Penton cord fabric in ginger, navy and green and each one is available with matching trousers to form a relaxed take on the modern suit. 

SOLMS JACKET PENTON CORD GINGER

 SOLMS JACKET PENTON CORD GINGER

SOLMS JACKET
PENTON CORD GINGER

SOLMS JACKET PENTON CORD RACING GREEN

SOLMS JACKET
PENTON CORD RACING GREEN

 

"The sheep from which this wool is taken graze in Huddersfield, only a short distance away from the mill in Oldham at which it is spun into cloth, massively reducing our carbon footprint."

New to the autumn collection are two more styles that showcase special fabrics, first up the Wickham Oatmeal jacket which is cut using an undyed ecological wool. The sheep from which this wool is taken graze in Huddersfield, only a short distance away from the mill in Oldham at which it is spun into cloth, massively reducing our carbon footprint. The second style is Cleveland Taupe, made from a mid-weight Portuguese, undyed Melton wool, giving it a beautiful drape and a subtle textural finish. Great as a versatile separate to include in your casual tailoring arsenal.

Solms jacket

 Solms jacket Wickham Oatmeal by Oliver Spencer.

SOLMS JACKET
CLEVELAND TAUPE

SOLMS JACKET WICKHAM OATMEAL

SOLMS JACKET
WICKHAM OATMEAL

SOLMS JACKET BUTTRESS CHARCOAL

SOLMS JACKET
BUTTRESS CHARCOAL

In addition to the aforementioned styles come a duo of Solms suits, this time in classic navy and charcoal hues. These suits have been constructed in virgin Italian wool and cotton and are perfect for creative work environments but can equally be worn at weekends as separates. The three front patch pockets - another motif of the Solms jacket - gives the style just a hint of workwear heritage, too.

Above all, the Solms jacket is one of the perennial pieces you'll go to season after season thanks to its great versatility and timeless silhouette. Collar popped, or lapel down, it's a unique bit of tailoring that's worth investing in.

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