Behind The Seams: Indigo-Dyed Needlecord

Behind The Seams: Indigo-Dyed Needlecord

Needlecord is a cloth we have been looking for an age to source here at Oliver Spencer but just couldn't quite find something that raised the bar - until we did! Inspired by the rebellious spirit of the Beatniks, our new indigo-dyed needlecord fabric brings tactile depth to pieces like this season's Bradwell Jacket, Atlanta Shirt and Belted pleat-fronted Trousers. But why needlecord, and why now? 

At its core, corduroy is a durable, ridged fabric born from a clever weaving technique. It starts with a base of cotton or cotton blends, woven in a plain or twill pattern. The magic happens with extra pile yarns introduced at regular intervals. These are woven into the base fabric to create loops. Once woven, the loops are cut lengthwise and brushed, forming those signature vertical ridges known as "wales." The word "wale" comes from an old English term for a raised stripe, and it's these parallel cords that give corduroy its unmistakable texture. Typically made from cotton for breathability and strength, the process results in a fabric that's warm, resilient, and visually dynamic since the wales catch light and shadow in ways that add instant depth and dimension to any garment.

 
 

Needlecord is essentially corduroy's refined sibling. While standard corduroy features wider wales - around 8 to 13 per inch, creating a chunkier, more rugged feel - needlecord amps up the finesse with 14 to 21 wales per inch. This higher wale count results in finer, narrower ridges, making the fabric lighter, softer, and more versatile for tailoring. Our indigo-dyed version takes this a step further: the deep blue hue, achieved through natural indigo, ages beautifully like denim, developing patina over time. It's less bulky than traditional cord, ideal for structured yet relaxed pieces that layer seamlessly without overwhelming the silhouette.

The Beatniks of the 1950s were all about blending intellectual edge with casual rebellion. Think Jack Kerouac in corduroy slacks, pairing them with turtlenecks or striped tees for that anti-establishment vibe. Corduroy embodied their bohemian ethos: durable enough for everyday wear, yet textured and unconventional, rejecting the starched conformity of the era. In narrow-wale forms like needlecord, it offers a sleeker and more modern interpretation that's a breeze to style.

Needlecord's texture adds visual depth, playing with light to create subtle shadows and highlights that make colours pop or subdued hues feel richer. It affects drape, too - how a garment moves and flatters the body - while mixing textures (like cord with smooth wool) creates contrast for layered, multidimensional ensembles. Ultimately, in styling, texture isn't just aesthetic; it's sensory, drawing people in and making your wardrobe feel alive. It's why our Autumn pieces prioritise it.

Older Post Newer Post