Autumn 24 - Designer's Notes

Autumn 24 - Designer's Notes

With the new Autumn 24 now officially launched. So much thought and feeling goes in to each collection, and we wanted to give you a better understanding of the processes that go into creating it, and discover how Oli sees the garments through his eyes.

 

 

So where did you start with this collection Oli? Was there particular catalyst that drove your way of thinking about it?

Well, it always comes down to texture. Choosing fabrics is a process that never really stops because sometimes I might come across a textile that I think 'Oh, that would be great used in this way, but in a different collection' so I'll bank it and come back to it. So there's always this constantly updated and curated library of fabrics that I'm working with. Sometimes this can be restrictive, but in a good way - for example, maybe I only want to work with a certain type of British wool for outerwear. With the Autumn 24 collection, I really wanted an eclectic sense of texture through the natural fibres, which is why I've used soft cotton jersey, corduroy, suede, wool, brushed cotton, and there are even some linen blends in there too. Texture, for me, is what sets apart great garments from merely good garments.

 

 
 
 

Your collections often riff on a time period. Was this the case for Autumn 24?

To a certain extent, Autumn 24 borrowed elements from 90s menswear. It's a complete coincidence that Oasis have decided to reform the week the collection launched, but there is definitely (maybe) a sense of that rebelliousness of the 90s in it! I've tried to blend modern preppy tailoring with contemporary sportswear motifs, a marriage that sort of came to the fore in the 90s - so extrafine wool rollnecks as well as understated striped knitted polos, vests, and lightweight cardigans, combining with sporty jersey elements in the shape of ribbed quarter-zips and heavyweight hoodies and tees. It's a nice balance that lends itself to styling the collection in many different ways.

 

 

How important is shape and silhouette in this collection?

Silhouette is always important of course, but even modern menswear still leans heavily on the same tried and tested shapes that have been popular over the last couple of centuries. There's a reason something like the modern shirt or the Pea coat hasn't changed in 100 years - because it's shape has been perfected. Garments such as the bomber jacket or the chore jacket go through trends where the collars might change or the pocket configurations switch up, but ultimately it's the same silhouette. As a consumer, there's a comfort in knowing that. We really try to focus on the details at Oliver Spencer - my design team are always looking at things such as buttons types, stitching details, fabric treatments, linings, pocket shapes... all of those small differences that can have a big effect on the overall look.

 

  

Did you have a goal or an ambition for this collection?

As with every collection, it's always wearability. I'm not an avant garde designer. I'm not trying to rewrite the fashion rule book or produce some paradigm shift in modern culture - I design clothes for men who appreciate fine fabrics, timeless silhouettes, and share in the love of the same cultural references. I want to give them a complete collection, wherein styling it all is a breeze.

  

What are some of your favourite pieces from the Autumn collection?

I'm a big fan of our new Orsman trousers which are a wide-leg style that I haven't really done before. We've produced these in a variety of different fabrics, but my favourite is probably the navy pinstripe. It takes a really conservative pattern (the pinstripe used to be the uniform of Victorian bankers) and applies it to a voluminous shape, which is really fun.  I also love the suede Hardwick jacket and the Arlington bomber in a check wool - both are just brilliantly textural and tactile and the colours are so rich. The thing I've been wearing the most is probably the Graves V-neck vest - it's so easy to layer over a tee or polo and really gives you that extra bit of warmth as autumn rolls in.

  

 
 
 
 
 

What does 2025 hold in store for menswear?

I think men are going to continue to lean on timeless shapes and natural fibres, as we continue to move slightly away from the streetwear influence. It's really interesting to see how the sneaker market and especially the resale market has kind of collapsed. Combine this with the push-back against the prices luxury brands are charging, and I think men are going to want garments they trust in, in terms of quality, construction, and longevity. I'm loving how lots of people are reinterpreting tailoring through a preppy lens, long may that continue.

Shop the Autumn 24 Collection

← Older Post Newer Post →