For this season’s collection, inspiration was a case of East meeting West, which seems to be a prevalent paradigm wherever we look these days. I was primarily drawn to the vibrancy, colours and theatre of the famous epicurean night markets of Hong Kong (which if you’re passionate about food like I am, you simply must go and experience), referencing the work of acclaimed cinematographer Christopher Doyle, whose sensual use of colour can be seen in films such as Wong Kar-wai’s In The Mood For Love and 2046. My overarching aim with this collection was to create the impression of an elegant soiree on a sultry tropical summer’s evening, incorporating soothing blue, teal and ecru hues with more vibrant rust oranges and rich emerald greens.
Hong Kong itself has such a fascinating sartorial heritage, with a strong tradition of artisanship in the textile industry and of course that very unique dichotomy of British colonial influence on the one hand and traditional eastern style on the other, the diversity of which is very inspiring. I wanted to further explore our signature relaxed tailoring, exemplified by an effortless deconstructed silhouette that carries through into more structured garments such as our classic blousons and summer raincoats. We continue to maintain a modern vision for tailoring that champions the comfort and ease of deconstruction and so you’ll find new iterations of our Brookes jacket with its hint of a peak lapel; our Grandpa coat in a marsh beige seersucker; and a four-pocket linen Cowboy jacket that perfectly answers the perennial smart-casual conundrum.
As is always the case, my design process takes its initial cues from the fabric. For SS20, we have have not only brought traditional fabrics up to date with soft and luxurious finishing techniques but have also discovered new textiles exclusive to Oliver Spencer. Naturally, lightweight natural fibres take centre stage, with some stunning seersucker and light jersey that have both been uniquely reworked. Elsewhere, linens, cottons and their respective mixes have been carefully selected for the ecological credentials as we continue with our commitment to reduce our carbon footprint and negative impact on the planet.
We were very privileged to be able to shoot the new campaign in Hong Kong on rising screen and theatre star Jonah Hauer-King and you’ll be seeing and hearing plenty more from him this summer so watch this space. I really hope you enjoy the collection and we’d love to show it to you in person at any of our London stores or global stockists. You can often find me at our flagship store on Lambs Conduit Street so drop in and say hi.