The finest fabrics have been sourced from mills in the UK, Portugal and Italy; and this season even includes an exclusive seersucker-like wool, the Heaton, designed by Oliver himself which has been used on the Solms jacket and Judo pant.

DB Overcoat Cleveland Sand

Talbot Roll Neck Hereford Black

Pleat Trouser Penton Cord Black

Hoxton Boot Suede Anthracite

Overnight Bag Pebble Leather Black

DB Overcoat Cleveland Sand

Talbot Roll Neck Hereford Black

Pleat Trouser Penton Cord Black

Hoxton Boot Suede Anthracite

Overnight Bag Pebble Leather Black

Being an independent brand, we are able to oversee each stage of the construction and production process, keeping production runs low so every single detail is managed in order to deliver well-crafted, long-lasting and sustainable clothing.

Oliver Spencer’s relaxed take on traditional men’s style is prevalent throughout the design process this season with easy silhouettes reflecting the luxe feel and comfort that comes through in the rich velvets, fine wools and soft cottons.

A contemporary take on the classic double-breasted overcoat and an all-encompassing eight-button pea coat are introduced this season in heavy lamb’s wool. With a conscious effort in mind to reduce our carbon footprint, we have introduced our Cleveland cloth; an undyed, ecological wool that turns these classic pieces into ethically designed garments. 

Clerkenwell Coat Cleveland Black

Merino Roll Neck Westbourne Royal Blue

Judo Pant Canton Oatmeal

Messenger Bag Kayder Beige

Broadway Shoe High Shine Leather Chocolate

Clerkenwell Coat Cleveland Black

Merino Roll Neck Westbourne Royal Blue

Judo Pant Canton Oatmeal

Messenger Bag Kayder Beige

Broadway Shoe High Shine Leather Chocolate

Several trousers in this season’s collection have been constructed from suiting fabrics, which gives them an edge over your stereotypical winter trouser making it feel effortless to look sophisticated when getting dressed. A Fair Isle design appears on a range of jacquard knits including a  heavy zip-through cardigan to shield you from the cold. 

Grandpa Coat Canton Oatmeal

Solms Jacket Penton Cord Blue

Merino Roll Neck Westbourne Royal Blue

Fishtail Trouser Penton Cord Black

Hoxton Boot Suede Anthracite

Overnight Bag Pebble Leather Walnut

Miller Sock Yates Black

Grandpa Coat Canton Oatmeal

Solms Jacket Penton Cord Blue

Merino Roll Neck Westbourne Royal Blue

Fishtail Trouser Penton Cord Black

Hoxton Boot Suede Anthracite

Overnight Bag Pebble Leather Walnut

Miller Sock Yates Black

Inspired by an age of elegant travel and the alpine landscape, the collection effortlessly balances bold colours such as bright navy blue and forest green with rich tones including dark greys, sand and a bold ochre. A reflection of the journey from the foot of the mountain to the skiing towns and villages of the Alps.

Related

DB Overcoat Cleveland Black

Merino Roll Neck Westbourne Tobacco

Pleat Trouser Palmerston Midnight

Messenger Bag Pebble Leather Black

Moorland Gilet Sheepskin Caramel

Hause Scarf Boxley Brown

Bermondsey Bomber With Sheepskin Collar Edinson Multi

Talbot Roll Neck Hereford Dark Multi

Dock Hat Rib Beige

Mac's work will be on show from the 14th - 22nd September. 

Hi Mac, how’s things? I hope all is well. As part of this year’s Shoreditch Design Triangle you are exhibiting at the Oliver Spencer store in Shoreditch. Can you tell us a little bit about your presentation?

I’m presenting my Iklwa chair with a few other objects I’ve designed, alongside some relics, including maquettes and sketches, which relate to my design process.

You graduated last year from Northumbria University. What did you study and what have you been up to since you graduated?

The course was titled 3D Design and offered the foundations for a future in both craft and more commercial design. I specialised in furniture making. Since graduating, I have had a busy year trying to decide who I want to be within this industry. I have been getting to know people and broadening my understanding of design and craft. In the past months, I have travelled to Cologne, Hong Kong and New York, exhibiting work, meeting designers and visiting workshops. I also currently have a residency at the university where I still have a studio space and access to workshops. From this position, I have been working on a number of other projects.

Roxwell Knitted Jacket Cable Black

Judo Pant Heaton Charcoal

Hoxton Boot Suede Chocolate

Roxwell Knitted Jacket Cable Black

Judo Pant Heaton Charcoal

Hoxton Boot Suede Chocolate

Tell us a little bit about your research process. What are the inspirations that influence your designs and your ideas?

Although my inspirations will inevitably evolve and change, recently I have been looking at aspects of my heritage and exploring how this can transpire into furniture. I have been taking inspiration from the people around me, and particular stories from my family members and responding to those. I also take a lot of inspiration from existing creatives - painters, sculptors, photographers and, of course, furniture makers.

You use a lot of wood in your work. Is that a conscious decision based on your ideas?

It is a conscious decision; it’s still the most satisfying and interesting material in my opinion, despite how frustrating it can be to work with - being a material that can warp, twist and change. There is something rewarding about going along with these changes and working with them. Timber is an age-old material; you feel connected to craftspeople throughout history, in a way, through that. I appreciate the fact that aspects of woodworking haven’t changed a great deal in thousands of years but yet there is always something new you can do with it. Although the tree was not felled by myself, you can often trace the origin of the timber and you have a better understanding of the origin of the material that you are working with. Sometimes with metals and plastics you can be so detached from the extraction of that material that you never really know what processes have gone into making it. With timber you know, and can make moves to be as responsible as possible.

Cowboy Jacket Cleveland Sand

Clerkenwell Tab Shirt East Green

Drawstring Trouser Mawson Charcoal

Hoxton Boot Suede Chocolate

Cowboy Jacket Cleveland Sand

Clerkenwell Tab Shirt East Green

Drawstring Trouser Mawson Charcoal

Hoxton Boot Suede Chocolate

Your final project piece at university was the Iklwa chair you mentioned earlier. Where does the name come from and why did you decide to call it that?

The name comes from a traditional southern African spear used during a particular stand against European colonialist interest in Africa. The armrests of the chair - which embrace and protect the sitter -took their form from this spear so it seemed fitting to name it after this. The chair itself has been designed to empower the user in the face of oppression so the name seemed relevant in this sense also.

What are your hopes for the future of design?

I hope the industry continues to diversify and more and more people from various backgrounds begin to take ever more present and major roles in design and craft. I hope that, despite the post-referendum climate of intolerance, people of underrepresented groups begin to get the representation they deserve. I also hope design becomes more sustainable and responsible. This is something I personally hope to get better at, for the longevity of the planet and the kind of lives we lead. I hope people continue to realise the fragility of the world and continue to respond to it.

Eton Collar Shirt Fallon Charcoal

Judo Pant Canton Navy

Hoxton Boot Suede Chocolate

Eton Collar Shirt Fallon Charcoal

Judo Pant Canton Navy

Hoxton Boot Suede Chocolate

What are you working on now?

I’m currently working on a project with British furniture makers Benchmark. We are working on a collaborative range of furniture which we hope will begin to take shape soon. I am also in discussions about another collaboration and have a new personal project taking shape; the details of these will be out soon. Alongside these projects, I plan to spend some more time abroad, visiting makers and finding new inspiration. I need to learn as much as possible.

You can see Mac's work, including the 'Iklwa' chair from the 14th - 22nd of September in our Shoreditch store as part of Shoreditch Design Triangle. You can read more on the Shoreditch Design Triangle website here.

We will also be hosting an in-store event with Mac on Thursday 19th September where you can hear him talk about his work and processes. RSVP - events@oliverspencer.co.uk

Mac Collins - Designer and Maker

www.maccollins.com

info@maccollins.com

DB Overcoat Cleveland Sand

Talbot Roll Neck Hereford Black

Pleat Trouser Penton Cord Black

Overnight Bag Pebble Leather Black

Hoxton Boot Suede Anthracite

DB Overcoat Cleveland Sand

Talbot Roll Neck Hereford Black

Pleat Trouser Penton Cord Black

Overnight Bag Pebble Leather Black

Hoxton Boot Suede Anthracite

Featured throughout the collection, suiting is reimagined in a relaxed fashion; trousers and jackets in sumptuous fabrics combine in a range of styles and even our bomber jacket is paired with matching trousers. A classic double-breasted overcoat in wool adds elegance and comfort for the colder months. High-waisted, pleat trousers are paired with oversized patchwork shirts creating an easy, yet timeless, feel. An array of knitwear features throughout the collection; basket-knit rollnecks, chunky winter cardigans and classic sweaters, all made in Portugal from natural yarns, come in a selection of subtle colours that can be worn alone or underneath a jacket or coat.

Lockton Bomber Penton Cord Green

Talbot Roll Neck Cable Ochre

Pleat Trouser Penton Cord Green

Hoxton Boot Suede Anthracite

Lockton Bomber Penton Cord Green

Talbot Roll Neck Cable Ochre

Pleat Trouser Penton Cord Green

Hoxton Boot Suede Anthracite

With a particular focus on comfort and quality, fabrics such as tactile velvets, eco wools, heavy corduroys, soft knits and wool seersuckers feature throughout the collection. Influenced by the local scenery, natural colours such as rich cobalt blues, burnt mustard and earthy greens have been used to subtly accent gentle beiges, ochres and ecru. Elsewhere the collection is an ode to pattern, whether it be traditional check shirting, mismatch ginghams and stripes, or flattering dogtooth whilst bold, graphic patterns appear on knitwear and outerwear.

Talbot Roll Neck Cable Ochre

Gibson Shirt Ralph Blue

Pleat Trouser Penton Cord Blue

Merino Roll Neck Westbourne Royal Blue

Talbot Roll Neck Cable Ochre

Gibson Shirt Ralph Blue

Pleat Trouser Penton Cord Blue

Merino Roll Neck Westbourne Royal Blue

With a continued commitment to consider our impact on the environment, we are dedicated to working with low footprint fabrics. Elsewhere we have focused on minimising our packaging which lead to a 36,934 kg reduction in our carbon footprint last year. To put that in context, we have reduced carbon emissions approximately equivalent to five London buses running every day for a year.

Solms Jacket Heaton Charcoal

Judo Pant Heaton Charcoal

Broadway Shoe High Shine Leather Black

Solms Jacket Canton Oatmeal

Talbot Roll Neck Bernina Blue

Judo Pant Canton Oatmeal

Hoxton Boot Suede Black

Solms Jacket Heaton Charcoal

Judo Pant Heaton Charcoal

Broadway Shoe High Shine Leather Black

Solms Jacket Canton Oatmeal

Talbot Roll Neck Bernina Blue

Judo Pant Canton Oatmeal

Hoxton Boot Suede Black

We aim to be open and honest regarding the continuous steps we are taking the improve our carbon footprint and environmental credentials. This is an ongoing process and we are on the first steps of a long journey to be part of the solution.

More information is available on our website’s sustainability page and our staff are available at any time to answer your questions. Likewise you are very welcome to contact us on info@oliverspencer.co.uk

Hi Steven, really great to chat to you. Firstly, can you tell us how you ended up joining Oliver Spencer?

I started working for Oli just over five years ago shortly after I moved to London. I was always into my clothes - firstly from wanting to emulate my heroes in music and on film. As a teenager I was also a skateboarder - that’s a scene that has its own, distinct uniform. It’s a real counterculture style and that attitude still resonates with me today. Oli himself has always drawn his inspirations from artists and musicians; that was the main reason I was drawn to the brand. So when the opportunity to join arose it felt like a brilliant fit.

Grove Jacket Penton Cord Black

Box Tee Paz Black/Beige

Clerkenwell Tab Shirt Woburn Oatmeal

Miller Sock Yates Ochre

Grove Jacket Penton Cord Black

Box Tee Paz Black/Beige

Clerkenwell Tab Shirt Woburn Oatmeal

Miller Sock Yates Ochre

You actually live in east London close to the Oliver Spencer Shoreditch store and commute over to west London every day. You must be able to really see the differences between the two areas.

The most striking thing is how different the architecture is. The wide, open streets and white Georgian houses of Notting Hill are a million miles away from all of the new buildings that are springing up on every corner in Shoreditch and Dalston. But both have their unique charms. Some of the buildings that are going up in the city are - eyesores or not - incredible feats of engineering. There are similarities too. Ernő Goldfinger’s famous Brutalist blocks - the Trellick Tower and Balfron Tower - are close to each of stores and it’s nice to see that common thread even though London can seem vast and sprawling at times. Historically the areas are quite different too and you can still see that today. Portobello has the famous antiques market and was traditionally a hub for musicians and bohemians for many, many years whilst Shoreditch was more known for manufacture - everything from clothing to beer - so there are lots of old warehouses. In fact our store on Calvert Avenue still boasts an amazing independent upholsterer next door, Ainsworth Broughton.

Do you think there is a single thing that defines the Oliver Spencer customer?

They tend to be guys who want to dress well but don’t like branding and logos. They’re looking for labels that put a focus on the quality, materials and simplicity in terms of fit. They’re not looking for new styles forced on to them. It's always really interesting to see a customer taking one of our designs and then tweaking little elements to suit their needs - like shortening a sleeve or tapering a trouser leg just to give it a subtle customised element.

Fishtail Trouser Eden Black

Robin Crew Hummel Black

Fishtail Trouser Eden Black

Robin Crew Hummel Black

You have to traverse London to get to work every day. What’s your journey like?

Well, I either ride my bicycle or ride my motorbike depending on how fresh my legs are feeling.

Tell us about your motorbike?

I own a Triumph Bonneville. They're just incredibly simple and beautiful machines. I love the custom element to them too. They start as this British classic but a few tweaks and they're great for riding up mountains or sprinting around a racetrack.

Box Tee Basten Black

Drawstring Trouser Mawson Midnight

Slider Belt Webbing Green

Atelier de l'Armee Traveler Tote Black

Box Tee Basten Black

Drawstring Trouser Mawson Midnight

Slider Belt Webbing Green

Atelier de l'Armee Traveler Tote Black

Talking of racetracks, you were a competitive runner when you were younger, weren’t you?

Yeah, it was a big part of my life. I'd train three or four times a week then compete at the weekends. I carried on until I was 23 years old when an ankle ligament injury forced me to quit. I started as an 11 year-old with boundless energy - and for the first six or seven years I combined it with football as well. I have to say I'm eternally grateful to my parents for the amount of miles they put in driving up and down motorways to stand and watch me run for anywhere between two and 20 minutes at a time.

How has that formative experience shaped you as an adult do you think?

Running gives you a lot of time to think; as a kid I think that's probably fairly rare. It definitely taught me that I thrive when I'm competing against myself instead of constantly measuring myself against others.

Bermondsey Bomber Velvet Fawn

Drawstring Trouser Mawson Midnight

Miller Sock Byram Navy/Black

Bermondsey Bomber Velvet Fawn

Drawstring Trouser Mawson Midnight

Miller Sock Byram Navy/Black

Steven, thanks so much for taking the time to talk with us today. Before we say goodbye; in the shop, customers must ask your opinion constantly. Is there one tip for dressing well that works for everyone?

Buy clothes that fit. You'll look a lot smarter than trying to hang on to a size you might have grown out of. And vice versa, if you drop down a size.

And lastly, one life lesson.

It's cool to be kind.

Photography by Thom Corbishley

Related

Theobald Jacket Mawson Charcoal

Conduit Tee Baines Green

Lockton Bomber Penton Cord Green

Bib Grandad Shirt Rey Indigo Light

Blenheim Crew Stanley Ochre

Braid Belt Leather Navy Multi

Swanfield Henley Basten Black

Miller Sock Watson Ochre Multi

Blenheim Crew Sierra Navy

The show was dominated by an easy, deconstructed silhouette whilst delicate, new textures have been created by reworking traditional summer fabrics such as seersucker and light jersey. Striking colours such as teal and burnt orange are prominent in this collection; they are mixed with ecrus and contrasting blacks and navies to create an overall impression that is reflected in the metropolis that is Hong-Kong. From its monochromatic skyline to its tropical islands, descending into the vibrancy of its night markets.

The show took place on Sunday 9th of June at 6pm and was hosted in the Dinerama street food market in Shoreditch, East London. The show consisted of 31 looks in total - scroll to view them all below:

Styling & Casting: William Gilchrist

Hair & Grooming: Johnnie Sapong at The Wall Group using Electric London professional hair products and Björk & Berries skincare

Music: Miles Copeland, Wonderful Sound

Production: Blonstein

Caller: Sarah Whisker

Seamstress: Issy Hickman

Models: Richard Biedul, Hu Bing, Dan Crowe, Kyle De Vole, Pablo Fernandez, Nat Gregory, Laurie Harding, Kayden Hesketh, Mark Hibbert, Earl James Charles, Wonil Jo, Krow Kian, Robert Konjic, George La Page, Nick Offord, Johan Ohlstrom, Dennis Okwera, Junkai Qui, Dean Webster, Wilfred Wong

1. Introduce yourself, and describe to us what you do at Oliver Spencer

My name is Peter, I’m an artist and songwriter and I work part-time in the stores on the shop floor. Although I’m mainly based in West London I work across the other stores as well, helping people with their sartorial decisions!

2. You spend a lot of your working time in our Notting Hill store, tell us some more about the area and the store itself.

I’ve always been close by or had some connection to Notting Hill. I used to live in Kensal Rise and worked in Kensington so I’d walk the length of Portobello Road every Friday morning when the market was on. The area has changed a lot in the last few years but there’s still something about it, there’s still a bit of a buzz through the mix of people and the community. It’s a strong community too, and obviously steeped in musical and artistic history. The store itself is an inviting place, I love it there. It’s a nice environment, we get to meet and talk to lots of interesting local customers.

3. We had the pleasure of visiting your studio in Clapham where we got an insight into your practise. Can you describe to us how you go about creating and making and what inspires you to do so?

Things usually start by just observing, noticing and collecting things in everyday life which I find uncanny or bizarre and then finding ways to reinterpret those things or present them back to the audience, hopefully in a way that they might find interesting or allow them to see that thing in a new light. For example, a few years ago I made a book using only quotes about the weather that were taken from found postcards. Presented next to each other they seem strange and monotonous but there’s something poetic about how we talk about the weather. I guess really I just want to present my take on life.

4. A lot of your recent work is based on the ‘found’ and reinterpreting this – what draws you to making in this way?

I like reusing things, giving something a new lease of life. I’ve always been drawn to old ripped billboard posters and a more ‘used’ aesthetic, things that I knew had had a life before. I never really liked anything that looked new or too slick. That’s changing slowly as I’ve got more into using paint but I still try and reuse materials whenever I can. I always feel like the work I make is a lot richer if I haven’t just gone to a shop and bought all the materials, like there’s more of a story there somehow.

Havana Shirt Ebley Blue

Havana Shirt Ebley Blue

5. We’ll be hosting some of your ‘Scratch Card’ work in Notting Hill over the next month or so, tell us about the concept behind it…

A while ago I started taking photographs of scratchcards that had been thrown on the floor, then began collecting them, not really knowing what I was going to do with them. I noticed all the scratch marks were different and had their own unique pattern. I started scanning them and playing around with the levels so I was left with a monochrome image of the scratches. I thought they would make great abstract pieces and I loved where the patterns had originated from. I see them as the markings of somewhere between hope and despair, you can visualize somebody scratching it off, hoping to win big, then realizing they haven’t and throwing the card on the floor. The paintings I’ll be showing at the Notting Hill store have all been made specifically with the store in mind - I’ve used pre-existing colours and sizes and certain other tones that will hopefully compliment the current collection and the space. I’ve tried to re-use materials where I can for the pieces, some of the canvas used were off-cuts and a lot of the wood was rescued from a skip. The store itself is quite an inspiring space - there’s artworks by David Austen whose work I now love and I’ve tried to frame the new pieces so they fit with the aesthetic of the shop.

6. How have you found your relationship with art has shaped the way you dress?

I don’t think what I’m wearing and what I’m making have too much in common, although I guess I might subconsciously take inspiration from certain colour pallets or shades. I do get inspired by other artists and musicians and how they dress, in particular those who have their own style without it looking like an effort. David Hockney is a good example of someone with his own stamp on the way he dresses, he completely has his own identity style-wize without looking like he’s trying. I think if you can manage to stand out unnoticed then you’re on to something.

Havana Shirt Ebley Blue

Yarmouth Shirt Hatch Navy

Havana Shirt Ebley Blue

Yarmouth Shirt Hatch Navy

7. What are your highlights of the current Oliver Spencer collection?

I’m a sucker for anything indigo dyed so the Travel and Hawaiian shirts in indigo are obvious favourites. The Drawstring shorts and Havana shirt in Ebley are standouts for me too, it’s a really lovely fabric with a great texture.

8. Lastly, do you have any upcoming projects in the pipeline…

A friend of mine used to DJ at the Hacienda and has loads of original bits from Factory records, so we’ve teamed up and I’m going to be making a one off piece using all the original stuff he has with the proceeds going to the Teenage Cancer Trust. I’m really excited about it, it means I’ll get to do lots of research on Factory, the Hacienda and all the bands and characters that made it happen. I’m also working on a video for one of my songs using photographs by Greg Girard, an amazing photographer from Canada. He allowed me to use his archive of photos from Vancouver and the far east from the 1970s which have been incredible to work with.

Related

Havana Jacket Beckford Black

Bleue Burnham Cefalu Signet Ring Silver

This collection brings together some classic Oliver Spencer summer staples alongside some new, exclusive styles. All the cotton in the collection has been certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard which is the standard-bearer for the textile industry worldwide.

Sigmund Jacket Bove Navy

Grandad Shirt Kent White

Fishtail Trouser Bove Navy

Sigmund Jacket Bove Navy

Grandad Shirt Kent White

Fishtail Trouser Bove Navy

Flax, the plant that linen comes from, is a hardy crop that doesn’t require pesticides. Likewise, the whole of the plant is used in the production of linen, which creates a greater yield and less waste. And if that wasn’t enough, linen is a breathable fabric making it a natural choice for warmer weather.

Buckland Jacket Temple Blue

Envelope Tee Cranwell Grey

Buckland Jacket Temple Blue

Envelope Tee Cranwell Grey

ABOVE: The Buckland Jacket in Temple Blue, cut from an organic Portugese cotton.

Envelope Tee Cranwell Oatmeal

Buckland Jacket Wick Indigo

Grandad Shirt Kent Sand

Havana Shirt Beckford Black

Envelope Tee Cranwell Oatmeal

Buckland Jacket Wick Indigo

Grandad Shirt Kent Sand

Havana Shirt Beckford Black

ABOVE: The Envelope Tee in Cranwell Oatmeal and Buckland Jacket in Temple Blue. Both cut from organic cotton.

Related

House Sweat Harris Sage

Havana Shirt Beckford Sand

Havana Shirt Baye Navy

Half Zip Sweat Milner Navy

Serafina Shirt Hatch Navy

Havana Jacket Ebley Blue

Box Tee Warren Forest Green

Havana Jacket Ebley Blue

Box Tee Warren Forest Green

Traditionally drawing a more mature crowd who come to enjoy the town & slower pace, today Palm Springs also attracts a younger audience whose presence is due, in no small part, to the success of Coachella festival.

Early this month, stylist and Oliver Spencer collaborator, William Gilchrist took a road trip with photographer and artist Wanda Orme to this hip desert town to capture some of the key highlights from our latest collection.

Havana Shirt Ebley Blue

Fishtail Trouser Beckford Sand

Herrera Polo Warren Forest Green

Havana Shirt Ebley Blue

Fishtail Trouser Beckford Sand

Herrera Polo Warren Forest Green

ABOVE: The Havana jacket is a reworked trucker made from a geometric, textured cotton. With a revere collar, the box pleat detail on the front references the traditional Caribbean guayabera shirt.

Serafina Shirt Hatch Navy

Theobald Jacket Beckford Sand

Fishtail Trouser Beckford Sand

Serafina Shirt Hatch Navy

Theobald Jacket Beckford Sand

Fishtail Trouser Beckford Sand

ABOVE: Our classic grandad shirt has been reworked in a blue and white check and a bold, white fabric detail on the breast pocket. Our slim fit Fishtail Trousers are made with a textured 'Beckford' cotton fabric in an old English cream.

Related

Havana Shirt Beckford Black

Grandad Shirt Kent Sand

Sigmund Jacket Bove Navy

Havana Shirt Baye Navy

Half Zip Sweat Milner Navy

Fishtail Trouser Bove Navy

When Oli isn't putting the collection together in the studio with our Design team, he can be found upstairs on our shop floor or visiting our manufacturers: the other shop floor! His tactile approach helps Oli visualise his work, listen to what his customers want and understand how to achieve this properly, efficiently and responsibly. This allows us to sympathetic to our environment whilst controlling our supply chain responsibly as it’s all within touching distance (well, nearly)!

Clerkenwell Tab Shirt Abbott White

Clerkenwell Tab Shirt Abbott White

For Spring Summer '19 we have delved into the world of linen; a staple of Summer collections, and not just because of it naturally being a great fabric to wear in the heat, but it's environmental and social impact is far lower than that of cotton (see our sustainability page to read more), making it a real cornerstone for each Spring Summer season.

Our Evering quality for SS19 is an Irish linen, typically used for furnishing it possesses more robust characteristics that give the cloth more structure and weight. Keeping our production within Europe is something we pride ourselves on, and finding factories to work with close to home means our garments don't have to travel as far which keeps our carbon footprint low. We aim to nurture and build long-standing relationships with our factories and their workers so we can constantly look at improving with them and developing better product together.

Spencer Honey

Spencer Honey

Lamb's Conduit Street is a constant source for our inspiration, and very much woven in to our personality as a brand. Many of our favourite styles have taken their names from the locale. The Theobald Jacket, one of our unstructured blazers is named after Theobalds Road at the South end of the street (and home to perhaps one of our favourite Butchers, McKanna Meats)! The Coram Jacket, our casual Nehru-collar jacket is named after Coram's Fields at the North end of the street, a charity foundation and 7-acre green space committed to providing a safe place for children to play.

Looking forward, our plan is to continue working towards becoming more proficient in our offering of environmentally low-impact products and continue to make informed, positive changes in the business that allow us to reduce our carbon footprint. Minimizing waste with our packaging and conscientious fabric sourcing are important components of this, but keeping things local, working directly with our suppliers and manufacturers and having control over our supply chain is just as important.

Related

Conrad Sunglasses Conrad Smoke

Here's Bleue Burnham, our Head of Sustainability and Assistant Store Manager at Lambs Conduit Street - alongside his work at Oliver Spencer, Bleue is also the founder of his own eponymous line of contemporary men's jewellery, Bleue Burnham: inspired by British modernity, using recycled precious metals and made in London. 

Introduce yourself, and describe to us what you do at Oliver Spencer...

My name is Bleue Wickham-Burnham, I'm 26 years old and in one life I own my own jewllery line called Bleue Burnham and in my other life I am the Head of Sustainability and Assistant Store Manager of our Lambs Conduit Street Stores at Oliver Spencer.

Bleue Burnham Cefalu Signet Ring Silver

Bleue Burnham Horizon Ring Silver

Bleue Burnham Permanent Ring Silver

Bleue Burnham Cefalu Signet Ring Silver

Bleue Burnham Horizon Ring Silver

Bleue Burnham Permanent Ring Silver

What inspired you to work on the shop floor, and how do you think it has helped shape your understanding of the industry?

I have always been in to clothing and style in general, so working on the shop floor for a brand I was a big fan of felt like a natural first step. From the shop floor you learn a lot about product; how people engage with clothing when shopping and the retail calendar. The shop floor of our Lambs Conduit Street store is very unique as our head offices are just below both stores. So having the combination of the shop floor and head office on my doorstep has been my biggest source of industry education; interacting with wholesale, marketing, ecommerce, design and production on a regular basis enabled me to understand how these business functions work: what were working towards, the challenges we face and how this formulates the brand and the industry as a whole. 

How did you end up becoming Head of Sustainability at Oliver Spencer and what are some of the changes you have seen?

I studied environmental sustainability at university and after working for Oli in the shop for a few months I put together a proposal of how I thought we should move forward - he agreed and that was the start! The company has the perfect posistioning for positive progress becasuse everyone here cares about the impact we have! Over the last couple of years we have transitioned just over a third of our collection to use low footprint fabrics such as organic cotton and European linens, we now power all of our stores and our head office from renewable energy, we have reduced our packaging footprint by 36,000kg per year, we have planted 300 trees with the Woodland Trust and we have tried to engage our customers and anyone who is interested on what we are doing and why it's important. There isn't a golden posistion for us, it's a process of continual development. 

Bleue Burnham Cefalu Signet Ring Silver

Bleue Burnham Permanent Ring Silver

Bleue Burnham Cefalu Signet Ring Silver

Bleue Burnham Permanent Ring Silver

Tell us about your jewellery line, 'Bleue Burnham' and how you got it off the ground...

I first started making in 2014 when my partner at the time, was a trained woman's jewellery designer who produces her own line of jewellery, 'Luc:e' - she tought me the basics of wax modelling and from there I started making pieces for myself - then my friends, then their friends, and slowly but surely it shaped into a business and I launched my first collection in April 2018.

What influences your approach to design? 

I'm really interested in what it means for men to wear jewellery. I want to make jewellery that feels, and looks contemporary but still has historical references and a cultural narrative. I'm interested in the cultures and subcultures that have shaped where we are today and how this affects what jewellery men want to wear. For my 001 collection I have explored counterculture through new and opposing thought; this collection breaks tradition in a relaxed and playful way and will be available in stores (including Oliver Spencer) from August 2019. 

Also, my final design rule - no skulls allowed!

Tell us a little bit about your relationship with jewellery, and the part it plays in the modern man's wardrobe...

My relationship with jewellery is a long standing one. I have been facinated with jewellery and how it fits into style from a very young age. As I have no professional jewellery training and a menswear background, menswear has naturally been a key influence in how I approach designing jewellery and running the brand. The aim is for any guy who is into their style to be able to relate to the jewellery and feel like it compliments their clothing. 

How do you define your personal style?

I like comfort, colour and texture. Like most men I wear a lot of navy, but try to add colour in where I can. As for textures - seersuckers in the summer, cord in the winter. To be honest my style consists mainly of vintage clothing, Patagonia, Oliver Spencer and silver and gold jewellery!

Bleue Burnham Ravello Ring Silver

Bleue Burnham Ravello Ring Silver

What does the future hold for Bleue Burnham - any developments in the pipeline?

Yes! I am very excited about 2019! From a jewellery perspective expect to see a much more diverse collection, which will include bracelets, bangles, pendants, more gold and gemstones. From a brand perspective expect to see more work around environmental progression - not only working on our personal footprint but approaching the environmental crisis as an issue as a whole and trying our best to contribute positively towards that. 

In one sentence answer the following:

Best resturant near Lambs Conduit Street?

Ciao Bella for food, Noble Rot for wine.

Interesting facts about Oliver Spencer?

He doesn't like wearing jewellery...yet.

Favourite piece on the shop floor?

Grandad Shirt Hattinson White! A beautiful fabric which is made in organic cotton.

When you're not working, we could find you...

Spending time with friends, enjoying music and swimming!

What are you listening to at the moment?

Celeste - Lately EP - such an amazing piece of music, and I can't wait to hear more from her!

If you are interested in more of my musical inclinations you can find me on Spotify bleueburnham - where I have a selection of playlists for all your musical needs.

You can find me on Instagram @bleueburnham or at www.bleueburnham.com 

We’ve selected some Spring staples from our SS19 collection that will ensure you’re layered up to face the music.

Conrad Sunglasses Conrad Havana Tortoiseshell

Conrad Sunglasses Conrad Havana Tortoiseshell

The Waltham Jacket in Fine Wax Cotton is a great outer-layer: suitable for a sudden downpour and when layered underneath a top coat it offers a ray of sunshine! Our Beaumont Coat in Bickerton Stone is a water-repellent, lightweight Italian Nylon; the perfect pack-away partner for inclement weather. 

A warm jacket never goes amiss in springtime; especially when it is as versatile as our Solms Jacket. This utilitarian jacket comes as a two in one. It has a button fastening with a notched lapel and addition button-loop detail that means it can be worn either as a casual outerwear piece with the collar popped up, or when folded down it turns into an informal tailored blazer.

The Helvellyn Jacket is your all-round, everyday layer. Italian Ripstop Nylon and a peaked hood protects you from the wind and rain while a double popper and zip fastening keeps things cosy. A 'Napolean' pocket at the chest provides a neat stowaway for your phone or wallet.

For Wildflower, Oliver Spencer is very pleased to have collaborated with artist Wolfgang Buttress on an immersive experience that combines sound and projection to transport the audience to his wildflower meadow. Models walked out along the cyclorama, shrowded by a black gauze that hung a couple of meters into the space. A powerful projection was cast onto the gauze, which illuminated the models and created a shadow until they reached the centre of the runway and started their walk.

Wolfgang Buttress’ installation in the Oliver Spencer Soho store was the start of an explorative journey that highlights the importance of being environmentally sustainable within a wasteful industry. Over the past year, Oliver Spencer has begun to take his first steps in focussing on the environmental and social efficiency of his business; all of his locations are powered by renewable energy, he is increasing his use of environmentally efficient fabrics and has reduced his packaging by 30%. This is a process of continuous improvement and as such it will always be a part of what we do. 

So how do we solve this? Carbon offsetting.

Carbon offsetting is the process of capturing carbon through actions indirect to your own activities to balance or store more carbon than you produce. A method that has proved its brilliance throughout human existence in ensuring we have the appropriate levels of oxygen and not too much carbon in the atmosphere (not to mention the biodiversity, ecosystems and land they support), is the presence of our humble leafy friends: trees.

Trees and plants are the lungs of this planet. Throughout their lifecycle they photosynthesize, capturing and storing carbon and in turn releasing oxygen into the atmosphere. The oxygen trees release is a major source of the oxygen we humans consume. Moreover, the carbon they store is crucially diverted from entering our atmosphere and further exacerbating climate change.

Recent updates to the Paris Agreement of tackling climate change have stated that immediate action is needed to prevent temperature rises above the 1.5 degrees that would cause catastrophic effects globally: drought, flooding, food uncertainty and heatwaves. All of which will result in harm to the human species physically, socially, politically and economically. So it’s imperative that individuals, businesses and governments change the way we behave to ensure a prosperous world exists for our children.

Our first venture into the world of carbon offsetting is the planting of 300 trees in partnership with the Woodland Trust. The Woodland Trust have long supported forestation and is largest woodland conservation charity in the United Kingdom.

To illustrate our commitment to reforestation Jon Beaumont (artist) has drawn 300 trees in the windows of our London stores. Each tree drawn represents a tree we have planted. We hope by doing this not only do we reduce our carbon footprint but we build awareness and inspire change amongst individuals and other businesses.

Best Wishes,

Oliver Spencer team.

PS. One of the easiest ways to reduce your own footprint is to switch to a renewable energy supplier. It’s easy (they do all the work) and costs nothing more than you would usually pay. We recommend Good Energy and Green Energy.

Gifting

Present opening is a part of the day that brings excitement, joy and a sense of appreciation to your fellow Christmas day entourage. A great moment indeed. The only slight catch is that choosing presents can be a stressful task at the best of times; who, what, why and when? Sometimes this cocktail of uncertainty can leave us reaching for an option which is perhaps a bit of a stab in the dark. Maybe they will like it, maybe they won’t. Despite an awkward thank you, sometimes presents aren’t quite right and therefore make their way to a dark corner of the house, only to be re-discovered when embarking on your spring clean. And if they do like their present, is it something that will last? How many things from last Christmas are you still using today?

Unfortunately the planet that supports our very existence finds our disposable habits a bit of pain in the neck. Well actually, it’s more like a puncture to the lung but we will go with pain in the neck for the time being.

This pain in the neck does not need to be repeatedly poked with disposable products:  it is better suited to being slowly massaged with long lasting, meaningful, consciously made products and experiences. In simple terms: buy less and choose quality. A decent bottle of wine goes a long way, as does a voucher to a restaurant or a donation to charity. Some say money as a present is unthoughtful, but is it more unthoughtful than waste at the expense of future generations? Why not get your lucky recipients to send you a good old fashioned Christmas list? Then you will know that you will be buying something that will be used. If you’re buying clothes try and buy something that is built to last and made in an environmentally and socially progressive manner (low footprint fabrics and socially minded production, also remember to keep the receipt so sizes and the style can be exchanged if the colour you chose isn’t to the lucky recipient’s preference).

If you really want to give more to the planet than you take this Christmas and gift like a true environmentalist then inspirational reading, plants and seeds are your golden ticket. For reading we suggest: Let my People go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard, Happy Hero by Solitare Townsend and The World We Made by Jonathan Porrit.

Wrapping Paper

Wrapping paper: the beholder of surprises only Christmas day (or a midnight inspection) will bring. But, what else is wrapping paper hiding? In most cases wrapping paper is single use and often dyed, laminated with additives which are not recyclable. This means most of the wrapping paper we use simply makes its way to landfill… which is... a little on the wasteful side.

So what can we do? Try and use fully recyclable packaging such as recycled paper with 100% paper content. Perhaps some old magazines you have left over? Wallpaper, GQ?

Food

Ahead of present giving as the focal point of the day; collective eating is a chance to connect the morning and afternoon, catch up, share stories, have a laugh and watch the more free spirited members of the table get sufficiently drunk. Great fun indeed. And after all it’s not that often that you get a chance to do this. However, through our propensity to import it’s estimated that what’s on our plate could have travelled 49,000 miles to get to you, raking up a serious footprint, so it’s worth taking time to think on how we could improve this situation. There is a simple answer to this. Buy local. And when we say local we don’t mean from your local market. We mean buying seasonal produce grown or reared as locally as possible. Farmers markets are a good place to start and if you live in a city it’s a bit harder to access local produce why not try Riverford organic? Oh yeah, and always remember to buy loose vegetables when you can and take a re-usable bag with you!

Christmas Tree

Finally we come to the centre of attention: the Christmas tree. Well, at least the centre of the room until Boxing Day where it transforms into the elephant.

Plastic fantastic trees may seem like a more environmentally sound option as they have the potential to last a few Christmases, but actually using a non-renewable, non-recyclable tree isn’t the best idea. Plastics not so fantastic after all. Christmas trees store carbon when growing so they’re are an important factor in the solution of continued existence on this planet. The best answer to this problem is to buy a potted plant. When you are finished plant the tree. This way you are truly giving more than you are taking.

Words by Bleue Wickham-Burnham (Head of Sustainability)

To style it up we took it to our favourite London establishment ‘The Duke’: a monument to taste with its dusky pink walls, dark wood and art deco objet.

Coventry Shoe Nubuck Black

Coventry Shoe Nubuck Black

Rydal Shoe Nubuck Black

Rydal Shoe Nubuck Black

Photography - Joseph Seresin 

Model - Jude 

Featuring Olive the dog

Our mission has always been to create clothing that is designed with purpose: using high-quality manufacturing and well-sourced, luxury fabrication. Oli spends most of his time between the factory floor and the shop floor, something that has enabled him to understand our customer’s needs and at the same time, build trusted relationships with our manufacturers and suppliers.

Oli’s approach to design always starts with textiles, his innate understanding of fabric structure, composition and colour help him build collections from a different point of view. Oli is able to feel the collection before he sees it, allowing for a more holistic and organic approach when it comes to fabric sourcing: from its provenance to the hand-feel and drape, to the environmental credentials of a fabric. 

The importance of using the right textiles is key to everything we do, to create enough fabric for just one garment requires a significant use of energy, water, chemicals and human-power. Ensuring that our clothing is timeless, environmentally friendly and built for our customer is crucial.

Over recent years our awareness on the importance of our responsibility to the environment has become clearer: we believe we can improve and we are committed to becoming a more environmentally sustainable and socially progressive brand - from sourcing textiles, to ensuring we’re working with the right energy suppliers and monitoring the waste consumption the business generates.

On November 8^th we invited Nick Carvell, Contributing Fashion Editor at GQ Magazine to our Berwick Street store to talk with Oliver and Bleue, our Head of Sustainability to discuss the environmental challenges within the fashion industry and how Oliver Spencer are approaching them. 

The event was supported by our good friend Kirk Truman the Founder and Editor of The Journal, a free quarterly culture and lifestyle publication, The event was recorded as a part of their new podcast series ‘Journal’. To listen to the podcast, you can stream below or download via the podcast app by following the link:

Journal Podcast - Episode 3 

Our current collections feature some tactful fabrics and engineering that soothe the effects of garment production on the environment. Key elements include our Organic Cotton shirt range and the use of undyed wool in the Cleveland Oatmeal Pea Coat and Parka as well as the Keeley Oatmeal Overcoat and Blouson. Learn more about our path to becoming a more environmentally sustainable brand and how we aim to develop over time to improve our footprint.

Woven similarly to velvet, corduroy is distinguished by its tufted cords, or otherwise known ‘wales’ - the size of the wale affects the width of the cords, and refers to the number of ridges per inch: the lower the wale, the thicker the cords.

In modern times, Corduroy’s popularity went through somewhat of a renaissance period; it was seen worn by style icons of the late seventies and early eighties such as Bryan Ferry and Roxy Music, Depeche Mode and a part of the New Romantic pop culture movement that combined working class values with unentitled opulence, eccentricity and creativity; a new way of thinking. The sartorial result of this was a combination of rich colour, deconstructed formality and juxtaposing textiles .

Another woven feature of the New Romantic movement was Velvet; a piled textile with a history endowed primarily with the ‘bourgeois’ and aristocracy. Much like its ridged counterpart – corduroy – its origins date back to the 13th century. The looped pile is integral to the structure of the fabric and also responsible for lending velvet its renowned depth of colour and light refraction.

For A/W 18 we’ve borrowed some of the eclectic ideology of the New Romantics, and deployed the use of Corduroy and Velvet in some modern silhouettes that give the collection a lustrous and nostalgic, yet contemporary feeling. The Drawstring Trouser in Cord Rust or the Bailey Bomber in Velvet Ochre are a great example of a future classic but if you’re wanting for something more utilitarian and practical, see the Brookes Jacket in Cord Navy or the Fishtail Trouser in Velvet Chocolate.

Whilst leading the charge with Roxy Music, the inquisitive and musically literate Glam-rock / New Romantic fusion, Ferry was known to pair rich-patterned double breasted jackets, leather trousers along with sharper and more traditional garb: always bending the rules. Ferry’s sense of personal style has become as famous as his illustrious career, a fashion icon as much a pioneer of sound.

For A/W ’18 Oliver Spencer uses textiles to provide a backbone to the collection, with deconstructed British Corduroy and Velvet punctuating an array of rich tones including dirty ochres, burnt rusts and tonal-checks; the rough with the smooth, or perhaps blue-collar bourgeois. A combination that reflects much of what was seen in London through out this period of time; a cultural melting pot of creativity, free-thinking and love – and perhaps two fingers.

Dark tones of the collection are highlighted with glimpses of yellow and cream to give a nautical look to the garments and add to the 'Search and Rescue' theme. The collection has been exclusively released at Oliver Spencer and Matches Fashion and can be shopped online here or in our shop at 58 Lambs Conduit Street. 

Beat Boot Nubuck Black

Beat Boot Nubuck Black

Beat Boot Nubuck Black

Beat Boot Nubuck Black

With over three thousand shows on over the course of the month, it is hard to know what to watch and find the performances you will enjoy. However our good friend and comedian Cassie Atkinson, has provided us with her top comedy picks of the Fringe this year from the free fringe and some of the ticketed events (her own show is a must see!).

Cassie Atkinson – ‘Swan Songs’: Cassie’s show is a musical comedy that makes best use of her wicked dark humour; described as “a combination between Flight of the Concords and Julia Davies”.

Owen Roberts - ‘I Let a Six-Year-Old Write My Show’: "After a severe case of writer's block, Owen has thrown caution to the wind and decided to let a child write his show for him. Kids are funny, right? What could possibly go wrong?"

Phil Jupitus is Porky the Poet in ‘Living in a World Where They Throw the Ducks at the Bread’: "Porky’s back at the Free Fringe and in rare form after two UK tours supporting The Lovely Eggs as well as his alter ego Phill Jupitus, whom he’s not really that fond of. Let’s just say that since Nevermind the Buzzcocks was cancelled, the scales have shifted in poetry’s favour. There will be new works, evergreen favourites and some occasional guests."

Rosie Jones - ‘Fifteen Minutes’: "Rosie Jones is a comedian with a penchant for being mischievous. Her cerebral palsy doesn't slow her down in the slightest. Catch her before she wobbles her way to stardom!"

Shows for children: If you have decided to take your kids with or are stuck for things to do with a young niece or nephew, then the Fringe has a plethora of shows for all ages. Like the rest of the Fringe, they range from the intriguing to the absurd and everything in between. Follow the link here to see some of the great shows that are coming up.

Aside from the Fringe, if you are visiting Edinburgh then you will not be disappointed when it comes to things to do. If you’re a lover of art then The Talbot Rice Gallery, which adjoins the University of Edinburgh, showcases international contemporary art and often works with the University to allow students access to the archives and to collaborate on projects together. Our pick is the Lucy Skaer exhibition; ‘The Green Man’, which uses materials and objects from the archive collections at the UoE and looks to find the often hidden aspects of the collection and makes intuitive leaps between them and her own work.

With all of Edinburgh’s culture to take in over the Festival month, it’s hard to not get hungry and want to take shelter from the creative madness on the streets. The Outsider is our recommendation for culinary delights. Their contemporary menu for lunch and dinner is complemented by their laid back and well thought out interiors, which makes for a brilliant dining experience. Definitely worth checking out.

If you’re wanting retail therapy then our stockists Frontiers are located on Stafford Street. As well as Oliver Spencer they have some great brands that are difficult to find elsewhere in Scotland. Be sure to pop in if you are in the area.

Related

Beat Boot Nubuck Black

Image one - © Edinburgh Festival Fringe Society

Image two - © Edinburgh Festival Fringe Society

Image three - Lucy Skaer, La Chasse 2015-18 (detail). Part of ‘The Green Man’. Courtesy Talbot Rice Gallery Photo: Ruth Clark

Beside the Isle of Wight's natural attraction with it's sweeping coast lines and breath taking views, it is also the home to the annual Cowes Sailing Regatta; a week-long celebration of yachting, racing and boat culture. With up to 40 daily races it is the largest sailing regatta of its kind in the world. The small seaport town of Cowes usually is home to around 10,000 people but during the week of the regatta, it attracts crowds of up to 20,000, which makes it an exciting and bustling place to visit.

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat then look no further than The Little Gloster in Gurnard, which sits on the other side of the headland from Cowes. With panoramic views of the Solent and a menu that uses the seasonal seafood and local produce available to them; this Scandinavian inspired restaurant is a great place to escape the busyness of the Cowes week festivities. It is also one of Oli's favourite places to eat when he is on the island. 

If a full weekend of boat related activities isn’t for you, then the small British island is home to some stunning natural landscapes and beaches. On the westernmost point of the island’s coast you can find the Needles; a series of jagged white rocks that protrude from the ocean to form an amazing costal spectacle. Further along from the Needles is Alum Bay, which is best known for its multi-coloured sand cliffs. The unusual coloured rock face is formed from oxidised iron compounds that result in strains of coloured rock forming creating a beautiful landscape.

Packing for a weekend away needs to be concise and practical, it's still possible to look stylish and feel comfortable in what you are wearing. In this case a pair of comfortable shorts for the daytime (our drawstring shorts should do the trick) and good pair of trousers for the evening is all you will need. We recommend a pair of our Drawstring Trousers as they are both relaxed, smart and can be dressed in different ways depending on the occasion. 

With fluctuating weather patterns and the chance of breeze, a lightwieght jacket on a trip away needs to be practical and easy to fold down into a bag. Our Buck Jacket in Linton Navy is a great solution and is cut from a mid-weight linen that will provide a layer of protection against an impromptu shower or chilly evening. Finally, a sturdy bag is necessary when traveling and is the perfect accessory to complete any holiday look. Our full-grain Doctors Bags are made from a hard wearing, pebbled British leather that has an additional strap for throwing over your shoulder or short handle when moving from the car to the hotel. 

Image 1: Boats Racing at Cowes 

Image 2: The Little Gloster Resturant and Bar 

Image 3: the Needles rock formation 

Flax is a robust crop as it relies solely on the seasonal sunshine and rain for  it to grow. Flax farmers are experts at reading the weather patterns and judging the best time to sow the seeds. The crop takes around 100 days until it reaches around a meter in lenghth, it is at this point that it is ready to be harvested. 

Conrad Sunglasses Conrad Havana Tortoiseshell

Conrad Sunglasses Conrad Havana Tortoiseshell

We visited farmer Bert Wolfcarius at his farm in Zulte, Belgium and saw how the flax he cultivates is processed into the raw fibre ready to be spun into various quality yarns. A lot of the flax fibre can be found in the root, so farmers have learnt to get the most out of their crop using special machinery; the plant is pulled up from the soil with its roots in-tact and then dopped down behind specialist combine harvester. The harvested flax is then left out in the fields to begin a process called ‘Retting’; the plant is exposed for about 6 weeks to the sun, rain and mud to loosen the fibres inside the stem. It is at this stage that it gains its signature natural colour.

Back at the farm the bales of flax arrive ready to be put through the second process, ‘scutching’. The plant goes through machines that beat and break the hard outer stem of the plant to reveal the fibres inside. The bales are rolled out onto a conveyer belt where the seed pods are removed to be re-used for the next farming season. Large rollers break down the woody stems (shrives) and help to remove the casing before they go through the final scutching machine that separates the shorter fibres (scutching tows) from the longer ones. Any excess is collected and used for insulation or animal bedding; nothing is wasted. By the end of the process the flax comes out in hair-like bunches that are checked manually for length and quality, which are then prepared to be sent on to the mill.

Bert’s farm has a great relationship with local mill, Libeco who are the 3^rd largest linen producer in Europe. They are a great advocate for environmental sustainability; the entirety of their mill is ran on energy produced from their solar panels and wind turbines. Here, the flax is spun into yarn that will be woven into cloths and textiles used in a multitude of home furnishings, fashion garments and canvases. Libeco are strong believers in linen and its’ ecological benefits, they support the local farmers like Bert in adopting a natural and sustainable practice.  

Linen has always been a big part of our summer collections here at Oliver Spencer. As our objectives shift towards a more sustainable way of producing and designing the use of linen, organic cottons and ecological wools, will play an even larger role in helping us achieve this goal. Linen’s ecological properties are not the only reason we work with it in a considerable amount of our garments; its texture and versatility make it very easy to work with and we feel the natural handle and interesting texture enhances the design of pieces in our collection. Known for being a breathable, lightweight fabric, linen is also extremely durable when woven tightly. It is for these reasons, along with its earth-friendly production process, that we will be making linen garments for many season to come.

DRINK

Noble Rot Resturant and Wine bar (Lambs Conduit Street, Bloomsbury) – Since moving onto the street, Noble Rot has rooted itself as the go to place for fine wine and dining. Their 23-page wine menu is broken down by region and offers wines by the bottle as well as a smaller selection for wines by the glass. The food menu is pretty excellent as well with a selection of bar snacks and a full à la carte menu of French English fusion dishes. We would recommend to any Son who wants to treat their dad to something special but still have the option of not spending a fortune.

EAT

Blacklock (Soho and The City) – This restaurant is a meat-lovers heaven. With an ethos of sourcing the best cuts of meat and serving them at reasonable prices; Blacklock has become renowned for its passion for chops. If you're after the perfect Father’s Day roast this Sunday then look no further, there is a choice of Cornish lamb, pork loin and a 55 day aged beef rump. If you’re feeling particularly hungry they also offer an ‘All In’ where you will be served a mixture of the three meats with all the trimmings. To drink, they offer a selection of beers, ‘cocktails for a fiver’ as well as both red and white wine on tap.

However, we would recommend booking ahead as their fine array of meat delights are no secret and you will struggle to get in by turning up on the day.

ART

The Serpentine Pavillion 2018 (Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park) – The new pavilion opened its doors to the public on Friday revealing a piece created by Mexican architect, Frida Escobedo. Her interpretation for the annual pavilion explores space and the way reflection through water and mirror can alter ones perspective of an environment. Escobedo takes inspiration from her native country where there is a “constant juxtaposition of layers” (serpentinegalleries.org) and has translated this by using a common roof tile to form the structure for the space.

The pavilion is free, which is ideal if you are thinking of a last minute solution, however expect it to be busy as it is the opening weekend. 

FILM

The Shortest Nights Film Festival (The Yard Theatre, Hackney Wick) – Short Sighted Cinema's annual film festival is on this Sunday, which takes inspiration in its name from the Summer Solstice. The day will feature a programme of new works by emerging British Filmmakers giving them a platform to showcase their work to new audiences. You can buy a day pass and come and go as you please, or if spending that much time with dad is too much then individual tickets can be purchased in advance or on the door. With Hackney Wick and Victoria Park close by, father’s day celebrations can easily spill into the park afterwards to enjoy the solstice sunshine. (Picture taken from film: Desolation Follows Dir: Burnham Arlidge)

 Stil unsure of a gift? why not shop our Fathers Day Edit

So Glenn, how did you start out?

"I left school at 15 and started in April 1968 at a company called 'James' which was a formal wear shop but they had another shop called 'James for younger men'. I was a junior, 15 years old, and I worked up to opening 6 shops with the owner over the course of 17 years and then went and did it myself."

Do you have any morning rituals for getting dressed?

"Not really; (laughing) well, its normally a question of which Oliver Spencer shirt I’m going to put on! No I’m quite boring in that sense and I’m very hands on down here, I can still be doing a window or emptying the boxes etc."

Clerkenwell Tab Shirt Woburn Oatmeal

Clerkenwell Tab Shirt Woburn Oatmeal

Do you always wear the merchandise you carry?

"Always yes, I always wear the product in store. The amount of times I’m asked where the item i am wearing is from  - It is great to be able to say that we stock it in the store.

When did you first encounter Oliver Spencer?

"We’d known about OS for a long time, right from the beginning. But we were a different shop at that point. At the point we changed the store we introduced OS … and it was the shirts we started with and the shirts we can’t fail with. We have a great shirt business overall and Oliver Spencer has been there from the very start."

Do you have a favourite OS piece?

"My wool Portobello Jacket is about 3 or 4 years old, I love this garment and more importantly I feel comfortable in it. It’s the same with the shirts and I can wear it for 4 or 5 years, I love the feel of it when it’s almost aged, you know?"

What do you do in your spare time?

"I love gardening  -  I’m a fan of Arne Maynard (garden designer) he’s a customer of ours. We like not particularly ‘flowery flowery’ gardens but more green with quite a lot of topiary, that sort of thing. So it’s quite structural; but you can probably get that feeling from our whole business, our office here has a similar aesthetic."

What do you think of the New AW18 collection?

"Generally, very pleased with it and like that fact I’m seeing cord again. Moleskin is another fabric we’ve picked up on generally and have bought into. Mainly I look for the interesting fabrics, I start with the shirts with Oli’s clothes,  I always start there. From there it’s what works with the collection where I can build a selection from. There are times when I can buy lots of fabric options and it’s great!"

Do you enjoy the buying process still?

"Yes, the experience of it is more important than just buying clothes. Each season that we buy we are trying to portray the whole idea of what the company is and what it stands for in the clothes made by designers we love. Now you get it all the time with companies trying to be ethical but I like Oli’s personal touch; He does not think he’s above anyone and he’ll still come to the showroom to say hello. That’s his nature, his personality. He’ll say hi and ask how you are and want to know what’s worked last season"

 Question to Hannah (Glenn's daughter and buyer at Maze) - Is maintaining a level of fun possible in the current climate?

"Absolutely, I think it’s necessary. I think you have to put some personality into your store, otherwise what reason do you give to your customers to come to you. You have to have an element of that. I’m lucky in that I’ve inherited my parents’ taste so there’s not been a conflict of interest when we buy [for the store] we’re very sure of our vision for the stores; it is crucial when buying coherently across the brands we stock. Sometimes you do have to be brave enough to try some of the more interesting pieces, otherwise things become too flat. It becomes formulaic otherwise and nobody wants that"

 Photography: Reece Straw

Artist Wolfgang Buttress worked with acoustic engineers Hoare Lea and Outboard to create an integrated 3D spacial soundscape that can be heard and experienced within the sculpture. The soundscape that you hear include some new vibrational sounds and communications of the honey bee recorded and discovered by scientist Dr. Martin Bencsik’s team which include: The begging signal, Quacking, tooting, whooping, waggle dance.

Wolfgang and Dr. Bencsik established that the European Honey Bee hums in the key of C. Working with the bee communications Wolfgang has  curated an ever evolving soundscape which can be experienced within and around the sculpture.

The sculpture which is planted with wildflowers, flax and grasses which are essential for the health and wellbeing of the bee and pollinators. The bees are acutely tuned to their environment, they can be seen as a sentinel of the earth. As mass farming has spread across the countryside, the bees have been forced to move closer to cities where more bio-diversity can be found. The importance of planting wildflowers and looking after our green spaces is crucial to the keeping an environment in which the bee can thrive.

Wolfgang and Oliver also collaborated with skin care specialists, Haeckels, to create a unique scent. For Reverie, they have created a scent based on a wildflower meadow in the British countryside. Using Flax (linen), wild cliff  grasses, parsley, honey extract, rosemary and other all natural ingredients sourced by their team in Margate.

 ‘It is a wild mix of fleeting scents, some of which are forgotten and uncelebrated.’ - Dom Bridges (Haeckels)

In essence, this scent is representational of clothing in its rawest form; when the materials we use to make clothing is at the beginning of life.

For years ‘fast fashion’ has dominated the high street and has convinced the consumer to change their spending habits to buy more but spend less. As appealing as this can be, it forces bad decisions to be made when producing such cheap garments in high quantities - leading to large amounts of waste. The consumer won’t change if cheap clothing is so readily available, therefore it is down to the industry to change their habits to set a higher standard for everyone else.

It is hard to make these changes quickly but small things can be done to make a big difference. At Oliver Spencer, we are striving to do what we can to make a change. We have switched over to green energy suppliers at  all our locations, have reduced our use of single use plastics and have begun to remove excess tissue and paper from our wrapped garments. Our range of organic and linen garments are a good way to begin to change your habits and help support a growing industry of ethically and responsibly sourced garments.

Reverie is open to the public for four weeks from Thursday the 17th of May.

 Photography credit: Kevin Luckhurst

Oliver and photographer, Thom Corbishley recently visited Wolfgang in his Nottingham studio to see how the project was progressing and talk to him about the importance of the bee and the challenges that they are facing.

Bees and pollinators play an essential role in food production as they pollinate 30% of the food that we eat. This has been one of the most catastrophic years on record for bee survival in the UK and abroad. More bees died last winter than previous years for reasons known and unknown. Climate change, lack of bio diversity and pesticides all help contribute to the challenges that bees face. 

I am working with Oliver Spencer on this temporary sculptural installation as they are moving towards a more sustainable way of creating fashion which is laudable.

Over the last few seasons Oliver Spencer has begun to work towards becoming a more sustainable brand through our approach to business and the textiles we use; increasing the use of organic cottons, ecological wools and linen. Linen is a particular environmental champion as it only needs rainwater to grow, it requires very little chemical input, its durable, grown within the EU and has a beautiful handle & texture. With our factories and textile mills all within Europe, our garments have less to travel before reaching the stores, which helps reduce our carbon footprint as a brand.

However it is not just the choice of fabrics that will help the industry to reach the goal of becoming more environmentally sustainable. The approach to business needs to shift to become more environmentally focused. Outside of the design room we have transitioned all Oliver Spencer locations to renewable energy, offer a repair service to our customers, we removed all unnecessary packaging (folding paper and collar card) and we are aiming to be free of single use plastic by the end of 2019. We hope to continually improve as we progress and be clear with our customers about the changes we make and why they are important. You can read more on the Sustainability section of our website.

There are positive things that we can do as individuals, as a community and as businesses which can make a beneficial impact. We can plant more flowers, mow the lawn less often and don't use pesticides.

Reverie can be seen in the Soho Store, Berwick Street (London) for four weeks from Thursday the 17th of May.

Our Summer tailoring for Spring Summer 18 is no different. This year we have combined some beautiful cotton and linen fabrics with some of our classic tailored looks as well as some new, more casual styles that will be sure to be fitting for any summer event.

Named after the road, which Oliver travels down to work every day, the Theobald Jacket is our smartest offering this season. The simple details of this jacket are what make it so well loved and perfect for a summer wedding or party. It features a simple two button fastening with minimalist pockets and a tabbed button loop on the lapel for those cooler summer evenings. Shown above in Linton pink this 100% linen suit will really turn heads for all the right reasons.

After being introduced a few seasons ago, the Coram Jacket has become a staple piece of our collections and our customer’s wardrobes. Similarly to the Toms Jacket, it sits well on its own or with a matching Fishtail or Drawstring Trouser, cut here in our soft Portman seersucker fabric. This suit is the epitome of un-structured; with no wadding or padding, it drapes naturally on the wearer and can easily be worn with just a T-shirt underneath. The seersucker fabric lends itself well to travel, as well as day to day use as its slight stretch will help reduce creasing and loose cut keep you cool throughout the day.

Appropriate 365 days of the year, this simple take on a classic style blazer compliments the cotton/wool blend of the Clarendon Navy fabric. With a soft handle and slight stretch, you will struggle to find a better mid-weight suit that gives a smart look using casual detailing and unmatchable comfort.

The Toms Jacket is our most casual summer offering. With a contemporary cut-away lapel-less collar it sits flat across the chest allowing the wearer to dress it down with either a T-shirt or Grandad Shirt. It is a boxier cut than your traditional tailored jacket as it sits quite square through the body, which allows freedom of movement - essential for a hot summers day. Paired here with a pair of our Bray Cream organic cotton Judo Pants; it can be worn easily with a casual trouser or jeans as well as our matching loose-fitting Drawstring Trousers.

When I first came to Lambs Conduit, I was so surprised at how a beautiful street still existed in the center of London - I knew at that point I had to open store there... and six months later, we did.

In celebration of 10 years at 62 Lambs Conduit Street, Oliver wanted to reflect on how the store, the unique urban setting and eclectic community have shaped and influenced the evolution of the brand. A walk through the design archive over the last 10 years inspired Oliver to recreate an old classic; created specifically for the store when it first launched.

The Fisher Jacket is cut from British Millerain fine waxed Cotton in a deep Yellow and made in London. The design envelopes London style and metropolitan life; a true sensibility of the brand. A blouson style bomber jacket with a neatly curved, cut away collar. A brass double ended zip sits on a contrasting ecru herringbone tape to keep things looking fresh. The jacket is lined in an ecru cotton herringbone and finished with a discreet embroidery to mark our 10^th birthday and available in limited numbers.

 Along with the Fisher Jacket are some canvas Tote Bags and three limited-edition Conduit Tees in Navy, Ecru and Pink marl; all of which hallmarked with a commemorative ‘X’ to celebrate the anniversary.

For Central London its remarkably down to earth. People round here take life at a seemingly more normal pace. It is comfortable without being boring, creative without being pretentious, business minded without being corporate. It feels like a place where remarkable ideas can be allowed to grow. Also the light, somehow when the sun comes out it has the some of the most amazing light in this city.

 

I first visited Lambs Conduit Street just over 10 years ago as a 20 year old boy! I was there for a job interview with Oliver and Marina in the, then empty shop unit at no. 62 – it was a building site! We chatted about store layout, how the design studio and office would be moving in there and the importance of community – I knew it was somewhere I wanted to be for a long time. We drifted down the road to a pub called The Lamb and wrapped up the interview there… It felt like the beginning of something special.

My first memory of LCS is having an interview with Tom in La Gourmadina. I hadn’t moved to London yet so I didn’t know the area. The sun was shining, the usual LCS culture was in full swing: coffee catch-ups, lunches, drinks with friends and shopping. The interview was more like catching up with a friend, it was a good day.

It’s like an oasis in the middle of central London. It’s a great place to both work and socialize, and there is a fantastic community feeling around, everyone says hello – it feels like home! You feel proud to work on such a beautiful street.

About 10 years ago, a group of us spent a Friday evening playing crazy golf on the street, drinking wine from what was at the time Vats Wine Bar. People from all up and down the street got involved, it pretty much summed up the great relaxed family feeling of Lambs Conduit Street.

 Drawing inspiration from a day in the life of London, Oliver Spencer builds on his love affair with the culture, people and unique energy that the city has to offer. From the urbane to the urban, he celebrates the unique experience of London life whether wandering Thames-side or after dark neon-lit adventures. Naturally curious he explores the landscape traversing the traditional and the new, with respect, creativity and love.

 The winter colour palette features charcoal and grey, inspired by the city’s urban sprawl contrasting with blues and light grey of the Thames.

 Corduroy features heavily in Oliver’s signature Judo Pant and drawstring styles in cream. The velvet seen in the summer collection continues in chocolate and mustard suits and separates.

 Burgundy represents the rich vibrant hues of the city nightlife as nocturnal London comes alive and confirms that love is the drug.

 Oliver Spencer continues his dedicated relationship with social network Vero and its ‘in-app’ buy-now functionality for AW18. Oliver’s Bailey Bomber Jacket will be available to purchase exclusively through Oliver’s Vero feed.

Here are the looks from the AW18 Show:

The show was also special for us as we had the pleasure of welcoming some of our customers to the audience. Historically catwalk shows have been the reserve of press, buyers, and celebrities – but the real VIPs are our customers. We wanted to thank those who have supported us over the years for their loyalty, so invited them to join us for this special occasion. Their responses were amazing to receive, here are just a few from the day:

“The event was a pleasure to attend, fabulous clothes, funky rhythms and friendly faces.” - Robert J Railton, artist

“Oliver Spencer, for me, is the most exciting menswear collections. The use of tweeds, wool, colour & design is truly wearable.” - Andrew McKirdy

"Great idea to give access to some non-industry punters like myself to the catwalk. Apart from the enjoying the buzz of the occasion it was so helpful to actually see how a collection fits together – my usual experience is to see the separate pieces on the rail." - Neil Tookey

"A great piece of work from all involved" - John

"Truly enjoyed it, we also loved the buy it now app too great way to interact, also loved the quickness of the pictures being sent out from the show." - Luke Clements

The catwalk was made even more special with music by Miles Copeland and performed by Remi Kabaka, Satin Singh, Karlos Seck, and Bill Bland.

After the show, our friends at Liberty hosted a party: with music from DJs Trevor Nelson and Nihal and drinks by Remy Martin, Frontier Lager, and Menabrea.

Watch the video below for behind the scenes footage and all the looks from the runway.

A massive thank you to all of the team on the day, especially Charly at Studio 13 and Seye for making it all happen.

Musicians & Models:
Seye Adelekan
Olugbenga Adelekan
Beanie Bhebhe
Jimi Jimmi
Shingai Shoniwa
Remi Kabaka
Johan Ohlstrom
Andro Cowperthwaite
Miles Copeland
Dan Felton
Richard Biedul

Styling:
William Gilchrist

Photography:
Dan Annett

Art Direction & Design:
Laura Tabet

Grooming:
Nuriya Naz Sonmez

Hair:
Davide Barbieri

Make Up:
Clare Read

Below is a video from show.

And you know what? This conveniently gives Oli and the team yet another excuse for frequent hops across the Channel. And when in Paris, what else is on your mind if not food? So we asked friend of the brand Shay Ola (chef and owner of Death by Burrito, as seen in our SS16 campaign above) to share some of his favourite food spots around the city. Over to Shay…

This Melbourne style cafe run by husband and wife team Nico and Sarah is the ultimate brunch spot and the pancakes are to die for. Get the Shay Special (pancakes with all the sides)

Chef Pierre Sang serving some amazing modern French cuisine with a Korean twist. The staff are great and Pierre is an awesome host (I have the hangovers to prove it) and the sister wine bar just around the corner on Rue Oberkampf does an amazing set lunch menu.

Flesh is a modern French bistro that specialises in grill and BBQ'd meats. The food is great and the prices very reasonable.

An absolute must on the list, the food is exquisite, a great wine selection and awesome cocktail. The deviled eggs are to die for and hands down it's one of the coolest places in Paris.

Do not let it's modest exterior or back street location fool you, I ate here for the first time 4 or so years ago and had my mind blown.

In January of this year, Mr Spencer, 43, found himself in hot water, again – this time of his own making. He had brought in The Turbans, a travelling band of Bohemian folk musicians, to live soundtrack the show. However, the dress rehearsal was a disaster. “It was mental – they suddenly broke out into a big argument,” says Mr Spencer. “Honestly, I was this close to cancelling them.” He shakes his head. “The Turbans were more stressful and emotionally draining than anything else.”

MR PORTER spent a crucial 24 hours with Mr Spencer as he and his team put the finishing flourishes to a collection he describes as “much more tactile, much more luxurious, much cleaner and a bit more grown up”. Meet him, his team and his travelling band in our film above, and shop the looks straight from the show in our edit below.

A wardrobe inspired by Mexican architect Luis Barragán (1902 – 1988).

Here are a few thoughts on the collection...

“Oliver Spencer is another British designer successfully skirting the line between street style and tailoring . . . a solid collection of smart, wearable separates distinguished by graphic prints.”
– The Times

“Savvy separates, casualwear made for the summer months and eye-watering accessories . . .
Yes please.”
– GQ.com

The Video and Look Book was shot in a former airship hangar; an amazing vast space in Bedfordshire. The hanger is one of the largest indoor spaces in Europe measuring at 55 meters high to the top of the roof pitch and the total floor area is approximately 5 acres. And we have to admit that when on set we felt a little bit over-whelmed by the vast scale of the location.

RAF Cardington was built by the Shorts Brothers and ‘Shed 2’ was erected in 1930. Used originally as the RAF Ballon Training Unit, the hangar was subsequently used by the Building Research Establishment who built the structures currently seen in the hangar.

The hangar is now used for a wide variety of projects and most recently by Warner Bros to film the Batman series of films and recently this week the longest aircraft in the world has been unveiled at an airfield in Cardington, from where the great airships of the 1920s flew.

The first ever performance wear collaboration from Spencer, the partnership came about by an introduction through a mutual friend of Oliver’s and Vulpine founder, Nick Hussey. Nick had long been an admirer of Oliver Spencer’s ethos and design and with Oliver being a cyclist himself who wanted something to wear on the road and in the office; their friendship grew to become a collaborative venture.

Oliver led the overall design with his knowledge of fit, British style and manufacturing whilst Vulpine advised on performance specific cuts along with subtle, practical features, making the ideal jacket for the modern cyclist.

The navy jacket features water resistant cotton fabric in a classic crisp cut with added breathability and technicality to withstand the elements. Detailing such as reflective neck lining, reverse cuffs and rear vent allow the wearer to be easily visible on the road. Similarly, the arms and back of the jacket have been cut slightly longer than traditional outerwear to suit the riding position, whilst still maintaining the style and fit synonymous with Oliver Spencer.

Inspired by Le Corbusier, (leader of the Purist art movement 1918 – 1925), Spencer was motivated by urban renewal and Cobusier’s mechanical, modular designs and modern materials; geometric spaces
flooded with colour.

Fabrications have been re-worked with new weaving techniques; a modern architectural take on a classic herringbone. Rhythm and repetition inspire pattern and prints. Performance fabrics reference
Corbusier’s ‘machines for living;’ Lightweight Nylon has heavy influence. Geometric shapes and colour are introduced in a nod towards Tartan.

Charcoal, navy and forest green anchor the colour palette which blends with caramel and rust tones.

The clean and sharp architectural lines of Unité d'Habitation influence traditional tailoring to create a modern fit for the season.

Key pieces include the Shawl Collar Donegal Jacket, Lightweight Nylon Mac, Judo Pants and the Caramel Epsom Coat that embody Spencer’s approach to evolutionary design.

Specials’ Drummer John "Brad" Bradbury plays a live set to accompany the show.