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An illustrated guide to Oliver Spencer trousers

Apr 6, 2020

Are you an advocate of the fishtail or especially partial to a pleat? We asked artist and manager of our Lambs Conduit store Jon Beaumont to illustrate Oliver Spencer’s trouser styles so you can expertly accommodate them in your seasonal wardrobe. Why illustrate them, you might ask? Well, of all the clothing categories out there, trousers undoubtedly receive the least love so we wanted to show our collection in a different light. They're often the last thought when you're pulling together a look. When you're staring into your wardrobe in a morning, it's unlikely that trousers are your first thought. It's much more interesting to visualise what you're going to wear on your torso, but your choice of trousers will often make or break your outfit. Your style of strides can completely change a look and will also determine your footwear options so the decision shouldn't be taken lightly. Below we explain the differences in our core styles and how best to incorporate them into your wardrobe for modernity, comfort, and versatility.

Pleated trousers

Pleated trousers have the unique trait of being able to effortlessly straddle the smart-casual divide. Recently we've seen the resurgence of a more louche 50s tailoring style (think Dickie Greenleaf in The Talented Mr. Ripley) where the typically high-waisted pleated trouser is paired with knitted polos or t-shirts, but equally, they can form part of a modern suit, or better yet, separates. Our pleated trousers come with single reverse pleats (reverse pleats, favoured by Italian tailors, face the pockets and have a looser feel, whereas English pleats face your fly fastening and are considered the smarter option), which create a little more space in the seat than, say, flat-fronted trousers. While we love a pleated style in a flannel cloth in the winter, pleated trousers are excellent in cotton, linen and linen blends during the summer, when they are perfect for dressing down with short-sleeved shirts, polos and tees. A pair of loafers would be the smart approach to footwear, but for an everyday casual look, we'd been inclined to add a roll-up to the trouser and wear them with Quoddy's Maliseet Oxfords, or a pair of our Coventry or Marton sneakers.

Judo pants and drawstring trousers

Some of our most popular trousers styles are our judo pants and drawstring trousers, primarily because they are so versatile. The drawstring style, as the name suggests, has a drawstring waist which makes them very easy to wear (read forgiving!). They're cut straight in the leg so they're not too slim but not overly roomy either, providing a relaxed look and feel. That said, they can just as easily be paired with soft tailoring as they can with classic workwear pieces such as chore jackets and overshirts. Our judo pants provide a contemporary alternative to a traditional trouser, since they are loose-fitting, cropped, and sit slightly higher on the waist with a gradual taper towards the hem. They also feature a patch pocket on the leg to give them added utility. This season, we've created a number of judo pants in 100% ecological linen, making them an ideal choice for casual weekend wear with grandad collar shirts and lightweight jackets.

Fishtail trousers

The Fishtail trouser is our classic fit suited to all occasions. It's a flat-front trouser that's slightly tapered through the leg with a casual topstitch hem. The name comes from the fishtail detail in the rear of the waistband which just adds additional comfort and movement to the fit. There really isn't anything you can't wear this style with, from blazers to workwear on top, to sneakers, boots and Oxfords on your feet. This season, we have cut our fishtail trousers from a variety of fabrics including ecological linen, cotton, and organic cotton, each offering a slightly different finish and handle.

About Jon Beaumont

"I’m primarily a painter though I have a background in art history which helps inform my work and has given me a broad interest across many mediums. Fairly obvious to anyone who knows her work, I’m a big fan of Lynette Yiadom-Boakye on whose paintings these figures were all based, I was very much looking forward to her show at the Tate Britain this year and hope it goes ahead in some form later on. Other artists I’m currently keen on are Michael Armitage, Karin Mamma Anderson, Anna Molska, Harun Farocki, William Kentridge; that’s quite a diverse group of interests but I think probably reveals an overall interest in artists preoccupied with quite specific elements of what it means to be human."

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